I guess it's not the best anymore. I had a very nice tool that I got from a company that sells Homestrand Mariner stove parts and tools. It gripped the NRV's nicely, but today while trying to extract the NRV from a Valor stove I picked up, broke off one of the ears on the business end of the tool. I thought the NRV had broken loose, but noticed the broken end of the tool. Chalk up another Brit stove that had a bad NRV with no washer under it. Every one of my British stoves has needed the NRV removed, Burmos 96, Monitor and the Valor now. The Burmos actually had stress cracks in the pump tube and the Monitor had the bottom of the pump tube fall off. I'll have to give Stu's tool a try. Duane
I sent Stu a message about buying his tools and haven't heard back. If you are able to reach him some other way, I would be interested in knowing how. His tools seems to be a good idea if this new obsession continues at the current rate. :-)
As mentioned before try the hot water in the font trick. I haven't tired it but from everdence it does work. Cheers Rob
Sorry about that tool hikerduane – know the feeling. One needs a good purpose made NRV tool – no question about that. I am constantly looking around at the few dealers in stove parts and such. What I want is a hardened steel tool for each NRV head type, self-centering (in a better way than tape around) and with a proper solid t-bar. If I can fit a spanner on the top, it is a plus. I bought the penta tool from Fettlebox as soon as I saw it, and would do the same if a NRV tool surfaced; hint hint hint … All the best, e
@NW Lady I know from past posts, that Stu had to deal with family which was his priority. Death in family? I have not tried the hot water in the tank, I think I missed a few topics regarding alternate ways to loosen a NRV. Due to poor soldering skills, in the past I've been able to send off my tanks to other more skilled folks to remove my NRV's or unsolder the pump tube. Most have been the Primus 96's, a couple which were 100+ year old ones. Glad to get those running. This Valor I'm working on now, I was able to get it running, but it quickly lost pressure, then alternately pushed the pump shaft out, so I knew it had a issue with the pip. Just wanted to see if I could get it going, which was a nice feeling, but then bummed over the NRV. Duane
If such a tool was to be made, What would be the 'Dream Tool' ? You mention Hardened steel, is that necessary ? Able to fit a spanner onto it, a hefty 'T' bar..... And ?
I have hardened the tip on some of the NRV-tools I made, but I doubt that it is nescessary in reality. The ones made in un-hardened steel doesn't show any wear, and quite frankly it must be some very odd brass piece that can damage good steel. It's also easy to harden it too much. I think a brittle tool is worse than any normal steel one for this purpose. The ones I made use a hexagonal top (as requested above) so you can use a spanner if needed, but that is also a bit overkill. If you make it with a real t-handle in opposite of the flimsy one seen on many original tools, you should be OK. Larger and thicker. The best function on the tools is to make it with a lock-down function where it seats and is held in place against the NRV with the aid of the pump tube threads.
Hi Christer I'm aware of your impressive tool (uh hum ) and indeed is the dream tool for sure but the work involved ( and therefore , cost) for a large batch of a tool similar to yours is hefty, and I'm not sure if members would suffer that cost. One off's are made for personal use and are a pleasure to make for yourself, but large amounts to sell need to be affordable, and therefore a little easier to make (for a good price) Some have deep pockets but I bet most here don't Could be wrong tho Stovies do love their Stoves
Yes, Ray. I know that it's not meant to make too elaborate tools in large masses. I was mainly answering your questions regarding if hardening really was needed, the hefty T-bar and the fitting to be able to use a spanner. Both latter things are easy to include also for larger productions, and if hardening isn't needed a time consuming factor is avoided.
Your tool is definitely a good pattern to work from Christer, and I'm scratching my grey matter to think of easier ways (in terms of production time/cost) to achieve the same goal Maybe using studding all the way down the tool rather than turning down the unnecessary ! We'll get there
Gentlemen, This turned out to be an interesting thread – might have taken a twist on hikerduane’s original intent, I hope that is OK. This is not unusual here on CCS and personally I find it interesting – for the most part. As for the perfect tool: Hardened: well I have broken a number of tools myself, both the skinny ones supplied by the makers and more substantial ones. I have a number of the slotted type, and on all the two sides have widened. Others have marks and wear in the “steel” from the brass, so steel&steel can be a lot. Hardened it should be. T-bar and/or spanner: As long as the t-bar is say quarter to half an inch OD and gives a good grip it is OK, those skinny ones are not good. Hex for a spanner is a plus. The whole idea here is to apply force controlled – not necessary all the force one have to muster. So applying quite a bit of force, and still having the “feel” – a spanner might just help with that. Lock-down: Yes, that is the ultimate solution - myohhhmy. Cost: I have spent a small fortune over the years buying crappy tools - with the internet from “all over” the world. If one properly functioning one were for sale I would pay the asking no doubt – for a masterpiece like the one Mr CC made ……. I would probably spend what is needed, just for the heck of it. At least half the fun with stoves is the fettling – making them burn nice and blue as intended. For that there is no two ways about it, one need a good working NRV tool. Happy and safe NRVing and, All the best, e
I have no issue with the slight thread drift. I'd willingly pay for a good tool that can do the job. I had sent one of my antique Primus 96's off to a stovie friend to have him unsolder the NRV, he said there was no need as his tool was able to remove the NRV. I like that, no messing up the original patina. The biggest issue I'm sure others have too, is the tool wanting to rise off the NVR, thus rounding off the top of the NRV. Duane
Ah, yes! The use of a bit of feeling is important. To have a hexagonal part at the top helps with this too since it means that a tool using this will be very easy to clasp well in a vice for those who prefer to use the way where you have the tool fixed, and release the NRV by instead holding the tank firmly upside down in your hands while rotating it. This will often give you a better feeling of what's going on, and it's easier to apply a good downforce to keep the valve seated well against the tool.
I agree with it all Christer, but it really is the 'Lock Down' aspect of your style of tool that sells it to me. So maybe St/St mostly with a hardened steel business end, is the way forward Maybe with an interchangeable bottom (and pump tube top) to account for the two sizes of pump tube, so only one tool body required
In this case I believe a well made hardened tool would be strong enough to keep it’s shape. In addition it would center nicely. Thanks all, e NB: I was actually discussing this with a person I met through work, who has a business making all sorts of gizmos for The University – quite a few harebrained ideas coming out of there and putting them to the test employ all kind of specialists. When machining the slot at the business end of a NRV tool he recommended a bitty tiny angel (invisible to the eye) with the end narrower than the top of the slot, thus making the tool “bite” better.
