I guess it has to do with the elbow and the distance to the regulator in the burner. Pulsing is not unusual for those stoves but the cleaner the wick, a non scorched wick, wick not too tight in the fuel supply tube, and the wick wire not rammed up inside against the elbow hole, a good condition jet and good fuel - all make for better fuel flow and a better running stove. Newly and fully serviced - initially some minor pulsing on start up but once running at a decent pressure and heat, roaring with no audible pulsing sound at all, including at a low flame level. It seems the more use the stove gets used over time and as the wick condition deteriorates, the more pulsing it gets. Caution: If you use water to help clean out the fuel out of the fuel tank, eg.. for postage, even with the wick dried, the flames will later burn yellow and sooty and I find it is better to replace the wick if that happens. A bit like putting out a cigarette with spit. You can still reignite it easily when it drys. Put out the cigarette with water and it becomes a lot harder to ignite when it has dried. Smokers can probably relate to that. I don't understand why that is but it must be chemistry with the water?? John
Slow pulsing that starts at start up and carries on for a good while, in my case was caused by starting stove up with meths in the divet ...the stove never really got hot enough even after 2 meths fills and took 5 -6 mins before the proper helicopter sound is heard .. Start it up with petrol or Coleman fuel ...no pulsing as the stove tank and tube gets lots of heat...Stove up and running at max within a couple of mins YES I KNOW IT'S MESSEY AND SOOTY... but that was the ultimate solution for my problem... Maybe a Tilley lamp lighter asbestos thingy may help with the meths start as it would hold more. all the best.markj
@Mark Jones I’m with @snwcmpr on the use of carbon felt in the pre-heater well. I now do that as routine on my Svea 123/123Rs (and all my other stoves: either carbon felt or fibreglass cord). The felt concentrates the heat at the burner and if you use metho you don’t get the soot. Here is a wick (bottom left of photo) before fitting to the stove. When it’s fitted the ends are clipped together with fine stainless steel wire. Cheers Tony
Yesterday I did receive a 123, today, I did check the tank and everything is clear, wick included plus it has some gas so I taught why not to give a try before I open it. So I check for a leak first and it pass the test so I fire up and everything was fine for the first 2 min then the flame went down and up again after 1 min. I knew it was not the wick because it was not constant so I did check after the valve by the jet and BINGO. I could see a lot of carbon that was going down when the stove was warming up . I did clear some with a needle to prove myself right and when I did try again the stove was normal. YES
It is a black resin, I have left the valve without jet and spindle over night in carburetor cleaner . This is the result.
+1 on a glassfiber cord in the preheat cup. It really makes a lot of difference - especially in cold weather.
I too use the carbon felt in all my roarer burners. I do not put it on the silents since I want the meths to burn out completely before I light them. Brad
@BradB I use carbon felt or fibreglass cord with both roarer and silent burners - I just have to be more patient when lighting the silents. Cheers Tony
