One more stupid question.......I hope. With the dunk test should I submerge it right up or over the burner bulb. Its pretty cold out today and I have the thing sitting outside. Can easily do a dunk test today.
@Confused There are no stupid questions... (The stupidity arises when people don't ask questions and break things - or themselves) You can dunk the whole thing. Make sure the control spindle is turned fully to the right (don't force it), then put it in warm water. Cheers Tony
Thank you Tony, and that post you supplied from back in September on the rebuild of one of these will prove to be very helpful to me once I receive the parts I ordered I'm sure! Some great images.
@Confused When you say "fuel canister screw off" do you mean the filler cap? If so, you need a new filler cap washer: don't try to run your stove with a leak from the filler cap. If that is the only leak, your packing nut/packing seems ok, but check for a leak from there when it's (eventually) lit (you might get a small flame from the packing nut. If so, turn the packing nut 1/4 of a turn to the right. If your Safety Release Valve (the bit at the top of the filler cap) is not leaking, and does not leak when your stove is fired up, you might get away with not servicing that part. But you should check it regularly when lit to ensure it is operating properly. If your stove runs well when you finally fire it up (blue flame - not much yellow after running a full tank), you might not need to replace the wick. Best regards Tony
Hi, @cranky1 and @Tony Press , a rubber compound "O" ring is NOT suitable for the service conditions seen by the regulator valve. Graphite is the best readily available material. Best Regards, Kerophile.
@cranky1 George (@kerophile) is entirely correct. [I was taken by the "autocorrect" of graphite and overlooked the "neoprene"]. Neoprene will fail, probably sooner rather than later. Thanks, George. Tony
