Fill material for inside cap divet?

Fixing a leak in the bung of an old 96 and see bubbles under the cap. Further inspection upon removing the newish cap washer is what looks like a small divet that was from the factory or a previous owner. Any suggested material that will fill that and not fall out into the fount? The washer would be over it, maybe tiny spot of pipe joint sealant? The cap has to be screwed on really tight to stop leakage. I will clean the area good.
Duane

 

I do not really know what mean with "divet" but I assume that is some kind of recess in the brass. Am I right?
Have you tried to find a metal washer that you can place between the cap and the rubber gasket.

Michael

 

Divet or duvet?
I find down-filled ones are best and most luxurious.

Alec.

 

Definition of divot

1. 1Scotland : a square of turf or sod
   
   
2. 2: a loose piece of turf (as one dug from a golf fairway in making a shot)
   

Scotland, the home of Golf.

Best Regards,
Kerophile

 

@hikerduane is new here.
Maybe asking him for a photo would help.

 

That's nothing, in THIS thread I'm still hoping to hear what ..

.. means.

 

Michael, you are correct. I used some tfe pipe sealant to fill the area, stuff I would have used when I fixed gas nozzles and hoses at my job at the convenience store. The fuel cap is too small, don't think a photo would show the area in question. Impatient to get the stove online again, screwed the cap down to form the sealant to the fuel cap, so set it close to the woodstove overnight to set it up. Will test after finishing breakfast.
A seal needs to be made between the washer and the cap, a second washer would not help but make the situation worse.
Duane

 

@presscall
Buzz-Kill to me means when having a nice 'Buzz' from drink or just a nice attitude/feeling, someone comes into your space and disrupts/destroys the nice ambiance.
But, I get that from most of his writing.

 

I have an old 'push into the grass' sign used either on golf courses or polo (horse) fields.
It is an advertising sign and 'Player's' refers to the cigarette brand.

 

Here's some after shots. I think the bung was ok, just a leak around/under the washer. I now notice a tiny leak thru the air release. If I was 84, I'd have some leakage too.
Duane

 

Duane,
Pardon me, I too will drift some here, thank you for nice post and follow up.
Above re divet, if it is joking or questioning... in your defense:
In your excellent post, you chose title and posed an excellent fettling question.
The 1st reply, it turns out, Michael @cmb56 correctly understood your title and question and we appreciate that
Michael has contributed with the only on-topic answer/content above. Thank you Michael .
Fwiw I think you're right Duane, just another washer does not address your divet leak issue.

DRIFT response: I can agree w/ our cynics that divet is not the best word (a better word was not suggested either, wtf) BUT divet worked, see response #1. There is no correction needed, divet: alternative form of divot (Webster's dictionary).
Re divet and divet hole... You are following a well established trend, divot hole is very often referred to as a divot (ie just google "fill divot"). Technically our cynics are correct, these are 2 different things that are best described as divot and a divot hole (and yours is technically not a divet hole but you chose divet and it was understood w/1st response, done).
Good lord, this and all of these above comments, are beside the point.

Ah, yes, the point is: how to best fill a divet hole, or leak from imperfection in a tank lid / filler cap? A best solution will have applications beyond your 96 tank lid.

You moved on with your fix, that once assembled, is now sealed, hopefully your fix holds up.

Above you say "tfe pipe sealant". Your gas nozzles at work were not exposed to high temperatures. If we only consider high temperature (thread) sealants for gasoline / solvent application, there are still multiple options. AND not for nothing, your fix is not sealing threads.

I will like to know, for your fix, what is the specific name of the sealant you chose?
Also interested to hear if it holds up to heat from use and if this sealant holds up while immersed in fuel? (as it would be at times stored / in a pack).

Again, this an excellent post / question. I have considered your divet leak and myself, aside from better washer, I've come up empty re fix. I'm also not aware of an applicable link. This, assuming: the best, proper fit most supple new washer still leaks?

From OP, my impression was your step one was to fill divet (allow that fix to "set"), then install washer, you did not go that route. Original tank lids "should" easily seal when snugged-up, not even tight really. As such a supple washer is free to rotate as it tightens and seals (fwiw this is not the case w/your fix). As per OP, might we still seek a brass compatible, solvent resistant "divet filler" (for lack of better word) vs a thread sealant?
thx omc

My hope is post stays on topic but I'm insulted by ken above and will respond.
PS are my responses to off-topic drifts, sorry.
John, I sincerely apologize, your approach to CCS posts and my own differ. You "expected" I post a response and that is fine, to each his own but meanwhile, I "try" to not drift off-topic (CCS being an online "reference" site). SO when/if my response equates to further drifting, I may not respond.
Case in point, buzz-kill is beside the point in ANOTHER post. As always a PM from you is surely welcome. That said, I'm thankful for your content and typically I DO want to post a response to you... and in fact I did (some may have read it) but within our 30 minute edit time I deleted my own post, my reason "off-topic".

Ken, re your "...to me means" "someone comes into your space and disrupts/destroys the nice ambiance".
But, I get that from most of his writing. (a meaning for you, and you alone)
If you find my posts disruptive and destructive, how bout you don't read my posts / content. Please do, stop anytime.
re I come "... into your space", ok.
Fellow members here, in our diverse CCS space, would not want to read a negative response every time you spew negativity, you can stop anytime. Fwiw above you're drifting off-topic, offer zero content and once again "piling-on" negativity (while implying... it is my posts that are disruptive?). @presscall @snwcmpr

 

@OMC, fix did not work. The tfe is designed for my type of application, just a store brand of tfe sealant. The cap does not get that hot, I've even used it to seal threads on a burner to fount. I've had about 19 years experience fixing nozzles, all hoses, even the break away ones, shear valves.
The issue seems to be the cap still. After really tightening the cap, it stops leaking. Last resort, maybe another washer. ?
Duane

 

@OMC
I genuinely didn't know what you meant in by 'buzz-kill' etc. in that other post and mentioning my continuing bewilderment in this post was actually very much on-topic, since this was as much about the quirks of language as it was to do with a stove issue.

My comment in this thread and that in the other one were no more than an expression of amusement at how our shared language throws up quirks of that sort. In neither case was it intended as a criticism of the bearer of such gems.

Best wishes to you OMC.

John

 

John,
Well received but we do differ.
From my perspective, we might all do well to more often open new posts in the lounge vs going off-topic (lounge post can link to the post that inspires a drift).

I DO hope to sway your approach to posting, or your opinion in this instance.
My hope is you might consider a different approach going forward. I'm not implying you're wrong or should change (again to each his own) but my hope is you add to your thought process, think first about adding content towards the original post. In this case, repairing the leak due to a small divet in Duane's tank lid.

Re [buzz-kill] "...mentioning my continuing bewilderment in this post was actually very much on-topic, since this was as much about the quirks of language as it was to do with a stove issue."

THIS IS DUANE'S POST, he has expressed zero interest in anything you mention as on-topic, it is an off-topic drift (not different language in this case). Especially drift in this case because any confusion was resolved in response #1.

In-general, with the vast growing knowledge you continue to share, PLEASE consider as a priority contributing to the OP's topic (w/secondary consideration given to off-topic drifts) and that's just me (but I also think less drifts greatly improve CCS as reference site).
BTW if buzz-kill was relevant to Primus 71 dating (that OP) I definitely would have responded, google the easy answer btw.

I am often misunderstood (my bad mostly), we do differ but I unequivocally assure you that I respect your opinion and your comment is well received. I thank you. omc

 

That looks like a Svea 123 type cap seal OD18mm ID10mm rather than the usual OD18mm ID 8mm for the 96. Even so that divet with the pink sealant should be outside the seal contact area when the cap is nipped up. The cap looks a bit loose between 3 & 6 o'clock & off-centre around the pressure release. Is the issue maybe at the side but nipping it up hard spreads the washer enough to seal?

 

Thread drift has not bothered me in the least, amusing at times that we can maintain some humor/humour. The tfe was not a proper application in this instance. Removed the washer and substituted a o-ring, holds pressure. Dont believe I have a specific washer for the cap. Just placed a order with Ross earlier last week. Hard to see the area of missing material or if enough scratches exist from old original washer to allow leaks. @Spiritburner, hard to really tell what area is causing the leakage.
Duane

 

What's that? If it's hard could it be lifting one side of the washer so it tightens on that part first but the rest isn't sealed - until you give it it a bit more torque?

 

When tightening help,is washer to hard (old) or to thin.Must be 2 mm .3 mm help save .

Dusan

 

re "Even so that divet with the pink sealant should be outside the seal contact area when the cap is nipped up."

Hmmm, I thought contact area of both sides of the washer are needed for a seal?
(granted it's only the tank side that gets deformed).

Duane, You do need to try best washer for the job and I do hope that is the fix BUT
you have now pointed out, the location of the divet. I see your concern with the void/divet on the surface area there, I thought, the washer did need to seal against (that surface).
If better fit new washer is not the fix... replace tank lid? or back to your OP...
"Any suggested material that will fill that [divet] and not fall out into the fount?".
An excellent question, a puddle of solder? Otherwise I wish I had your answer for divet filler (brass compatible, high temp, solvent resistant). thx omc

 

Thing is, solder or such would leave it's own deformation of the washer. O-ring seems to be the key. Upon further inspection what Ross points to, appears to be two areas, one further out, that may be more the culprit.
Duane