Hi all I'm new to the whole stove collecting thing. I have a optimus No.5 & No. 96 and just bought a military No.12 stove but it has a small leak on the burner tube and was wondering how I could plug this. Any help would be much appreciated.
Welcome to the forum. Tons of stuff about here to look at for repairing things, some even not stove related. From your initial description sounds like a seal gone between parts. Spares can be made by yourself with instructions available in the fettling area, or you squander your bit coins in the Fettle Box.
Cheers for the quick reply but no it's a leak on the burner tube that you heat with meths that has the leak.
Many thanks for the image, always useful. If I'm reading right it's failed at the joint at the riser to the nipple. Your concern is temperature requirements for brazing/silver soldering.. My feeling is at this point is silver soldering will be sufficient, but would suggest you fully clean the joint area to see if there is further stress problems in the area to scope out the work required.
Terminology issue again. I always understood silver solder and sil-brazing to be the same thing. Not to be confused with plumbing or electrical solder. The difference being the HIGH temperature requirement of silver solder (sil-brazing) versus the low temperature of plumbing or electrical solder. The heat of the burner in use will require the higher temperature, silver solder, joint repair. If it was a tank, the lower temperature of plumbing or electrical solder would be sufficient. I hope that is clear. Ken in NC
@snwcmpr Agree wrt silver soldering/brazing. Think Presscall was the first person I'd heard using brazing to describe the process. I was taught it as soldering, so it probably depends who first taught you. The only reason I would suggest silver soldering is the slightly lower temperatures needed compared with other brazing fillers. There is the risk that the higher temps required with other braze metals may weaken existing joints and the assembly then falls apart.
@Simes & @snwcmpr An Australian perspective: Having grown up on a farm in Australia (a long time ago) where DIY was the tool at hand, I always assumed that "soldering" was about plumbing (and later on, electronics). We always referred to joining metals together at very high temperatures (broken steel machinery, brass pressure lines; cast items etc) as "brazing" and not soldering. The first time I heard of "silver soldering" was a friend of mine who was a jeweller and talked about silver soldering earrings and the like. My understanding of brazing v soldering is close to this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing Cheers Tony
@Highlandtrooper , Colin it's as easy as cleaning with citric acid and silver soldering the crack I can do it for you if you buy me a stick Alec.
Pretty much the same thing in my book, as Tony Press's wikipedia link infers. The 'sil-' (silver) term evidently defines the 'filler' metal in the brazing operation. I refer to 'silbrazing' often because it seems to have more meaning to an international audience here on CCS, but 'brazing' and 'silver soldering' are the terms I grew up with to refer to the same process. John
My experience is a bit different than John's. For me there was soft solder, the standard plumber or electrician stuff, silver solder which covers all the various alloys of hard solder. Joining parts with any of those materials was soldering or silver-soldering. Brazing implied a brass based stick of joining material and was used mostly on ferrous metals that didn't have to be stuck together enough to require welding. That usually required the use of an oxy-acetylene torch, though occasionally very small brazing jobs could be done with propane. Using the brass rod was brazing and the sticks were called brazing rods. Last was joining ferrous materials with a ferrous filler and that was welding, either gas or arc.
