Is there a link for filling and pressurize get a 14 B? I'm working on 4 different stoves, and have no Idea what the hell I'm doing with this one... Rob
Take off the fuel cap and add fuel. Coleman fuel. Replace fuel cap and open upper portion of fuel cap. Place ball on end of pump in top of fuel cap and pump. Close upper section of fuel cap. To light, open left (as viewed in your picture) knob 1-2 full turns. Open right knob 1/4 turn and light burner. After 1-2 minutes close left knob and open right knob to adjust flame. Looking at the condition of the stove before doing any of the above you will need to: Make sure the pump leather is in good shape and that the pump actually pumps air, Check the gasket on the fuel cap and make sure it seals air tight Without fuel, pump 15-20 pumps into the tank then open each valve one at a time and listen for air coming out of the end of the generator.
Additional photos would be nice. I have Prentiss Wabers stoves, but not the same model you do. 1. Does the pump work? Pump while holding your finger over the nozzle. If you don't feel a lot of resistance, then you'll need to service or replace the pump leather before going further. 2. Empty any liquid out of the tank. Close the knob going to the burners. Open the valve on top of the fuel filler, push the pump nozzle up against it and pump some pressure into the tank. It will take quite a bit of pumping with an empty tank -- 40-50 strokes with a good pump. Close the valve on top of the fuel filler. I like to keep the pump pressed against it as I close it. It's not supposed to leak, but... Snug the valve slightly with a wrench, being careful not to mar the brass. Hold your ear next to the generator tube (the long tube that goes into the burner). I see yours has a bracket that secures it to the burner -- you need to remove that to do this test. Open the valve and listen for the hiss of escaping air. If you can't hear any, it means that either the tank didn't pressurize (either a leak or your pump doesn't work) or the generator or control valve is blocked so air can't escape. If this is the case, slowly open the fuel fill cap and listen for air escaping. If all is well to this point, pump the tank back up and submerge it in a bucket of water. Look for bubbles, which will tell you where leaks are. (Probably the gasket for the fuel fill will need replacing). Assuming all is ok, reassemble stove. 3. Fuel is white gas (Coleman Fuel or an equivalent brand). Fill the tank about 2/3 full. Pump it up, say 10-15 strokes or to the point it gets noticeably harder to pump. 4. This is what I can't see in your photo. In my 20's-era Prentiss Wabers, there is a short steel rod running from front to back of the stove, underneath the burner fitting where the generator enters the burner. Lifting this while opening the valve will allow fuel to flow into the priming cup, rather than into the burner. I think that yours is a later model (1930s), and that there is no priming cup. I think yours has an air valve like in Coleman stoves, so the valve going straight back from the generator tube controls fuel flow, and the one at right angle to it lets you add extra air to the mix, just like the "Start" lever on a Coleman stove. Anyway, perform the pressure and leak tests. If you have any problems, check back in for help. If you haven't started a modern ('50s or later) Coleman stove, and so don't know what I'm talking about in my #4 above, then please ask for help before you go further. White gas is safe to use if you know what you're doing, but a possibly defective stove and an inexperienced user is a bad combination. Also, any lighting of the stove should be done outside, away from flammable stuff, and with a fire extinguisher handy. ....Arch edit: my reply crossed with Cottage Hill Bill's. I concur with his description of the knobs (opening the left knob before lighting). That is, your stove is 30s vintage, and has the Coleman-style air control, and does not have a priming cup. I recommend doing the pressure/leak tests I described before trying to light it.
The flat piece of sheet metal between the burners opens/closes the fuel line to the auxiliary burner. Be sure it is closed when lighting the main burner. Pressure test before use. I just noticed that your red stove posted in the flame shots thread also has an air input knob, as does this PW.
Thank you kindly. Long weekend with family. Will be getting after this stove next two days and trying to figure it all out. Cottage Hill Bill- I didn't even know the cap had a separate piece... pretty hard getting gas down the air pressure whole, glad I didn't try. Leathers on pump are coming around. They are moving air, but may need replacement (will hit you guys up for that info next) ArchMc- will roll through your check off as soon as I get basics down. Snwcmpr- does have air control knob also. Shagratork- why ask questions to the unqualified? This is the ONLY place for me to get the answers I need. Thank you all. Will keep you posted. Have this baby up and running in no time. Then on to the other 4 I have...
@Robert Joslyn My comment above was just to emphasise the great advice you had been given. Of course, if you need any further explanations or advice on any 'stovie' matter, then ask away.
