I got it from a German online dealer who mainly sells parts for stoves and lamps. He has a "service-set" for a 111 but the jet is for white gas so I especially asked for a jet for kero. It's supposed to have a smaller hole... None of them are are marked in any way so I couldn't tell by the eye. These parts are obviously after market and recently produced. An "original" is probably hard to get
@Litch That story of your "kerosene" jet is rather odd. "Original" 111 jets are available. In Europe "Fogas" have them, as do others sellers. Best regards Tony
Sorry to hear this stove is still not running as you'd like. I reread this post from the beginning. Some pictures look OK, others show a little yellow in the flame and some show a lot. You've tried different fuels and different jets without any improvement. Are you doing a good prime out of the wind and preheating the burner with alcohol that has a good ethanol content? Are you using the air restrictor in the burner? It is not needed for kerosene use. Too little air will give almost the same effect as too much fuel. Ray
In the meantime my priming technique has improved a lot Honestly I think it's quite good now and at 20° Celsius it's not difficult. My stove came (second hand) with a setup "for kerosene only" meaning no air restrictor and no jet for alcohol. These jets are interesting. I got in contact with fogas.se. They were very nice and said they had the jet but kindly sent me to hytta.de so I wouldn't have to pay the extra postage from Sweden for such a tiny item. With "original" I mean a stamped version - that would be a "K"? If I'm not mistaken all of these jets today are made somewhere in Asia
So, if I read this right, you had a Kerosene set up, then bought a "K" jet. It may be an optical illusion but the right jet looks like a smaller hole. UNLESS SOMEONE MORE EXPERIENCED JUMPS IN: I would suggest adding a slight/small chamfer of a sharp angle of the hole in the jet on the right. (Just like the one on the left) I can safely assume the one on the left is the one that came with the stove. Have you tried inserting a few different wire sizes, into the holes, to see if you can identify the hole sizes?
When I first got 111T the flame looked just like that , the burner cap twists on to a pair of lugs...it wasn't in them, and the cap was seriously overheating ..I caught it in time , I would imagine if run for a while, my cap would have become distorted and then I would never get it to sit flat. is yours still flat on the bottom? does the cap sit on any flat surface without rocking? all the best.markj
Mark, I just checked the cap: It's perfectly flat I'll try to get some wires. Does anybody know what size the jets are supposed to have? Peter
Resurrecting this old thread, because I think that if ever classiccampstoves.com has a purpose, it is to sort this out. I am experiencing similar behavior as Litch from one 111 and one 111C stove. I am pretty certain I have an original 111 kerosene jet, it is unmarked. They were simply not marked. I also have a few "M" jets (marked M) and "A" jets (marked A) for the 111C. I have tried to measure the holes with different wires, but I don't have access to that many. Here's what I found. Unmarked 111 jet: tight fit on a cleaning needle for 111 type stoves, which I measure to around 0.25 mm (with micrometer caliper). M jet. Loose fit on the same 0.25 mm needle. When looking at the needle and hole through a loupe, there is clearly a gap, wider than for the unmarked jet. An Optimus pricker for a 00 stove is very close, but doesn't fit. A jet. Using a loupe, you can enter the needle without touching the sides. Same for the pricker. (00 stove jet: pricker fits snugly) Based on the above it looks like the original jet is around 0.26-0.28 mm, the M jet is around 0.30-0.32 mm. My measurements are not more accurate than this, I found it difficult to measure the needles/prickers with the caliper. My experience from using the jets in the 111 and 111C stoves: 111: original jet runs with a clear blue flame. M jet starts out with tendencies to yellow tips, but once warmed up the flame is blue. Even turned down to a minimum there are no yellow tips, and no soot. But still I would say it is borderline too rich, I prefer the unmarked jet. 111C: it's been awhile since I used this stove, so this is from memory. Unmarked jet runs fine at all levels, but obviously less strong. M jet shows yellow tips when below half power, on full power it's fine. And this is after I had the burner resoldered (as all other 111Cs apparently), I think it was slightly better before the resolder. But still not good at low levels with the M jet. On a more general note, it looks like manufacturers have gone from highly specialized stoves, as in the different burners for 111 (kerosene) and 111B (white gas), to multifuel stoves that should run on everything. There also seems to have been an increasing focus on max power. I don't think this is entirely a good thing, inevitably there will be compromises. Even worse is that Optimus tries to run a wide range of fuels on one jet size (M).
An update, dspearsy2k posted a list of very plausible jet sizes here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/111t-jet-nipple-for-aspen-4t.35704/#post-367523 I will be looking for spare 0.28 mm jets for the 111s.
