Hi have an 8R for a short while but the flame isn't as strong as it was. I have took out the jet and needle assembly and cleaned it all, cleaned the tank. I can't (don't want to force) get the tube of that goes to the tank but fuel blows through OK. So thinking it isn't blocked, reassembled it but still doesn't seem to really get going, just OK. I have applied a bit of heat on the tank itself to try to get more pressure. Any ideas, tnx
I have a Shinabro 8R clone and it behaves the same way. I've tried all the same things but it takes maybe 10mins to get up to a pulsing roar and even then it isn't what it once was. Any suggestions from anyone? Full tear down and rebuild?
Just a thought but I did start using Coleman fuel ,a while back _it does burn clean but is it better than petrol
In my experience the most likely culprit is loss of pressure due to a less than perfect seal. Could be either the gasket (easy to replace) or the safety valve. But usually the gasket and a good place to start. In a pinch, an o-ring will work but a good gasket is a better and safer solution. You might be able to test the SRV with a drop of detergent or liquid soap. A hot water dunk test can also be revealing.
The good news is that this problem can 'apparently' be easily fixed. The bad news is not many know the 'secret' After the usual triage techniques to ensure all air leaks are cured, and as you say liquid passages are clear then the wick surgery is required. This requires some brute force and resembles open heart surgery with the corresponding dealing of dread of will I oil the patient survive performing this operation. Unfortunately the risks associated with this has meant some critical details are known only to a few select individuals, only a few of whom will divulge info after copious amounts of alcohol. This is and at trick on the adherents, as you have also consumed equal amounts and will be unable to remember the details later. The free snippets I have gleaned are as follows: Obtain good quality cotton mop head, synthetic is a no no. No details on make or model so cannot provide more. Remove goodly quantity of string for your new wick Again 'goodly' is known only to those trained in the arts. My guess is to try to make your new wick match the one in the pictures, readily available here or which resembles the remains you have just removed from the patient,time is of the essence here. This where things get a little tricky, as the method and timing of wick making can be crucial. Better results can be accomplished if done under a full harvest moon, but you will have to experiment with direction of twist of the wick, I guess this may be a hemisphere issue. The number and order of chickens to be slaughtered if have yet to understand. Cracking stoves by all accounts, but check the cadaver like demeanour of those using them. Any way good luck, and keep the garlic round your neck.
Hi, itchy has offered sound advice in saying you need to ensure no air leaks from either the filler cap and/or SRV. If there is a leak replace the seals. I would recommend two further checks before thinking about replacing the wick. 1. Ensure that the tank is not over-filled with fuel. The maker recommends no more than two-thirds filled. 2. If the filler cap has been sealed since you last used the stove, open it to allow the tank to equalise pressure before re-sealing the cap and priming the stove. Best Regards, Kerophile.
I too would start with the cap gasket, they are readily available and cheap. I've replaced the wick in my Shinibro and I must not have known what I was doing because my experience was drama free. You might try running some fuel-injection/carb cleaner through the stove. Not saying that unscrewing the tank from the fuel line will be easy on your Optimus since I don't have one yet. Burning petrol comes with it's own set of problems from what I've read here. Good Luck Mike
Or you can always try what @kerophile suggests. Which is less exciting as you don't need to wear clown shoes while doing it. Sorry forgot that bit of the process.
All good ideas above. I will add ...... Before you do try to remove the tube from the tank to check the wick ... Do a lot of research so you do not damage the tube/stove. @presscall made a wooden block jig, as I made something similar, and it works very well. But the main culprit there is the possibility of a very tight thread fit. When done well, a new wick can be a 'last option' fix after everything else does not work. One thing I do to see if it is pressure, I heat the tank with a small torch. If the flame does in fact get bigger, I usually assume all is well, and it just takes time to get hot. I decoked a Svea 123 burner/vaporizer when the flame did not get better, even after replacing the wick. Now....
Over filled tank is a known culprit after stove has been fettled. On a Russian 8R clone, six months after i had replace the cap washer, it started leaking. A washer from a Texas supplier. Older 8's seem to take more time, don't care to mess with them and break something. Run them the best they can do. Duane
@tezz You said: "Just a thought but I did start using Coleman fuel ,a while back _it does burn clean but is it better than petrol". 1. Coleman fuel is petrol (gasoline) without the additives. 2. Gasoline from the pump with its additives will eventually clog up your burner system therefore Coleman fuel, benzine , or panel wipe will be better to use in a gasoline stove. Cheers Tony
managed to undo tube to tank -was very tight -took out the wick which is about4 inch long and is wraped in a gauze and inside is a twisted wire.the whole thing looks ok but the end is discoloured but not black .do these need renewing at all -have cleaned all pipes ,jet and washers -hopefully will be back to its roaring again
I would replace the wick since you already have it a part. Just make sure you use cotton not a synthetic material. Mop heads seem to be the most popular. I'll be picking up some myself for an Enders Baby I'm overhauling. Just don't use too much and make it a tight fit. Mike
should the wick be wrapped with wire gauze -seens a very tight fit in the tube -how tight should i pack the cotton wick ??
I didn't have much luck reusing the gauze on one of my stoves, just the wire to get the wick in. Duane
Hi @tezz Similar burner arrangement: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-no-8r-first-steps-filler-cap-wick.92/
I have always reused the mesh. Never a problem. Just do not use more wick than you had originally. If you have to push it in hard, it is too much. I twist the wire around the wick in the middle, fold it in half, wrap the mesh around it and push it in.
I had the same issue with the Russian 8r clone I just received. It turned out to be a leak where the control shaft is. I'm not sure what the correct name is. I took the burner off and the jet and put a drop of lubricating oil in behind the seal. I then put a drop down the shaft on the other side of seal. After awhile it resealed and I used the stove on an overnight backpacking trip.