I've found the nrv's from Juliands don't fit stoves, threads are "off". They can still be used for parts, utilizing the pip, spring. I think we have mentioned this before. Duane
Mine were not from Juliands, but I did not say where they were from. Along those lines, I had thought the NRVs from Juliands could have the threads cleaned up and screw in.
Ah yes, just need to run a tap through.... Oh fffffflip...... Don't you just hate it when that happens That'll teach me for not paying attention
They are precision made & absolute professional quality NRV sockets so you need whole set of them for various "un-standard" size of NRV's.
Just for clarity @Afterburner , there is only one size of slot which is 5.20mm to cover the oversized NRV's as suggested by @Radler here Its a little to big for the correct size NRV's (5mm), but is now able to deal with the 5mm+ NRV's which are raising their heads more and more of late Cheers
@Longilily Your tool looks very well made, I wish I had the machine and the knowledge to make something like that! Your next problem with the different threads and diameters of the pumps is not a little one. I was faced with stubborn NRV's first time in early spring last year. I decided to make a "Carlsson tool" and was looking for a pump cap which I could sacrifice for this purpose. In November I still not had found one, but two stoves more with damaged NRV's waiting to be fettled. Then I realised, that I would need more than one pump-lid because of the different diameters and threads. I came to the conclusion that for each stove his own and unmodified pump-lid should be used for the tool. How much torque can be transferred through a hole of about 6 mm diameter? I studied the maximal torque of Allen head bolts and without any calculations came to the conclusion that a common Allen key, usually made of chromium-vanadium steel, is strong enough to tear any brass made NRV-head apart. This was the start idea for the design of my own NRV-tool. @Longilily Feel free to make your beautiful sockets a bit longer (~93 mm) and with a square end (¼" drive). A 5.5 mm socket, some washers and Allen key you may find in your toolbox and the tool is ready. Just try it, it's published to be copied! If you are kind, you may call it the "Swiss NRV-tool" British made . I know, using a pile of gaskets for the length adaptation looks like a makeshift solution in modern eyes, but it's not! Millions of houses, castles and even Buckingham Palace or the Pyramids are made by setting stone by stone, all makeshift solutions? In fact it's much easier than using thread, nut and locking nut, which needs taking the tool out of the pump and using two spanners for length adaptation. Best Regards Radler
Longilily, using a shim to take up space in your tool head, but it may be too cobbled to work. Using washers sounds much cheaper to make, everyone has washers. Duane
I was meaning... In future 4.85mm, 5.30mm, 5.40mm and/or 5.50mm NRV might surface up so full set of suitable NRV sockets would be handy. Your "production line" is set up to make those precision NRV sockets so it would be good time to make full set of them just to be ready for the future.
If you make the NRV socket set for yourself it just needs to be good. Tools for sale need more 'price point' thinking...
I'm a bit late to the party here and have just been reading this thread from the beginning. My 'Como' drill (a cheaper version of a Dremel) uses collets to cover a range of small drill diameters. There are several collets and each covers a 'range' of diameters, each 'range' overlapping with the next collet size up. I was wondering whether some arrangement could be made using a single 'collet' NRV tool. A long collet with a slighty oversized NRV shape would be slid into the pump tube and loosely seated over the NRV. Next, a tubular outer sleeve would slide in and e.g. a nut would be tightened down, forcing the collet jaws to tighten onto the NRV. The stoves screw on pump cap, after being separated from the pump rod assembly, is then utilised with an adjuster nut to prevent 'cam out' of the collet from the NRV. The collet itself would be able to cope with a range of similarly sized NRV's maybe with as much as +/- 0.5mm. OK, I might not have thought this out all the through, but thought I'd pop it here to stir up some thinking. Baz
... actually, come to think about it, I think I have an archimedes drill that has this sort of arrangement, obviously to hold a drill bit, not an NRV! Baz
