Thank you to alnl1996 for taking the time to experiment - although coffee and breakfast doesn't sound like too much of a hardship for you and Garth - that never even entered my mind! It makes perfect sense so I shall invest in a copper pan when I have some pennies. Thinking about it the tank gets hotter quicker when using my omnia oven so size and material of cookware is obviously a big factor. Thank you for all your replies. Regards Karl
I have used 111, 111C and 111T for winter camping. To heat the tent I run the stove continuously 2-3 hours on morning and on evening. During that time I also make my meals and melt the snow or ice to get water. Tank and lower part of the case gets 'quite' hot. Tank cannot be touched with bare hand and also the pump knob will be a bit too hot to pump without gloves. When I shut off the stove and release the pressure from the tank fuel boils inside (maybe on tube that goes to burner?) the tank. I have never got a "safety release" from the SRV (although I have changed some of the original tank caps to caps that have air release screw and no SRV ).
@Vanman . Great stoves those and one of the best models to have. As @Doc Mark suggests - it is very worthwhile to do the the seals throughout. If you ever use White Gas/Coleman fuel in them(which you can) never operate them if any of the seals are suspect.. They are good stoves with either fuel but tuned more to kerosene as in your examples. As far as heat differences between them @Garth is on to it. The wider the diameter of the pot or pan, the more extra heat that will pass over the tank. Radiant heat. Also consider if the heat shields are shiny enough to be effective enough. That could be the main reason there is a difference here. Or is there a difference in the thickness of the brass of the fuel tanks?? I've never compared them myself so I am considering any possibility. Paint colour differences can mean different heat reflection rates (eg... black = absorbent or white paint = more reflective) - by how much and in your case, it probably won't really matter. Using the stove at full blast over a long period of time(especially indoors) would make a big difference to how hot the tank gets. If you have to run it that way to keep the flame blue, you may need to get a new fuel nipple/jet as the existing one could be worn.. That can be the cause for yellow flame tips at lower flame levels. Using good quality kerosene is best too. Do you run both at full flame? Those stoves usually simmer well on low and blue too. Some stoves can run at a higher flame pressure while others of the same model won't. It can depend on how the auto pricker is set on their spindle, how clean the brass mesh filter is or the possibility the burner has coke build up inside it. A greater nipple aperture size can be a reason as well. A worn one will allow more gas through it. Cheers, John
The heat shield is tarnished - another point I'd not even considered, thank you. I shall give it a polish. Although after afterburners comments I can see there's nothing to worry about. It does have to be at full throttle to run blue. Now I have the 2nd stove I can work on one whilst having the other to cook on and perform a de-coke. I use the paraffin they sell in 4 litre containers for indoor heaters. I've not seen different grades unless you buy in bulk which is not an option for me. As for using Coleman fuel - no thanks! I had a Coleman stove on my boat and whilst it performed faultlessly for a couple of years it scared me every time I used it! Regards Karl
