Hello all, I've just bought an Optimus 111 off eBay, it's in better condition than it seemed from the photos, needs a good clean and probably new seals and a pump leather. The case could do with a paint job. I've read forum posts here on all of the above, and am fairly confident on where to begin. My one query is the SRV, the tank filler lid on my stove seems different to most of the variants I've seen here. Does anyone recognise what type it is and know what I should do with it?
I dont think it is "stock" for a `111. It looks more like it came off of a 45 or such..others smarter than me will along shortly Im sure
Looks like a cap from a kerosene burner. If so, the cap has a screw for adjusting pressure, and no SRV. As long one use kerosene, this is my prefered way of adjusting power. I have replaced the SRV-caps of all my 111 with caps with pressure release screw.
@afoton - well this is a standard 111 so I'm only planning on using kerosene/paraffin. I presume I need some kind of small rubber seal under the small screw? It looks like there was some kind of substance to make a seal under the screw but its totally solid now.
Normally there is no seal under the brass screw - it is supposed to fit closely when light tightend. If it doesn’t - a polishing of the screw-tip with wetpaper in grid 1000 could be an idea?
@noise_boy 1. That is not an Optimus 111 filler cap (as said above). It is from some other type of stove). 2. If you don’t want to change it for a proper 111 cap, clean the varnished fuel off the pressure release screw and cap. Acetone helps get it out of the threads. 3. Replace the filler cap washer. Can you post a good photo of the burner without the windshield? (To make sure it’s a kerosene burner). Cheers Tony Note: I cross-posted with Harder’s good advice (@Harder D. Soerensen)
@noise_boy Glad to see you in receipt of your stove. Tank cap is not standard. Maybe with a little fuel in the tank, up end it, loosen the small screw to check if it releases fuel& seals again, you can be confident to safely use the stove only with Kerosene. Wishing You Total success, with Best Regards. OPTIMUST.
The interoperability in the “Swedish family of stoves” still amazes me. Parts from a 100 year old Svea will still fit a modern Optimus 111-hiker etc. I sure wish todays companies would take up this praxis again!
Firstly thank you all for your detailed and knowledgable responses. @Tony Press see below for a photo of the burner and more detail on the filler cap. If i did want a more original cap where would be a good place to look? BAse camp have them for £14 but that seems a lot! @Harder D. Soerensen I agree, it's an extreme case of 'if it ain't broke...' My plan now is to give the whole lot a good clean, I was going to soak the burner and its associated bits in white vinegar as folks here have suggested, it doesnt' look in a terrible state. I need to buy a little wrench as the original one is missing. I also need to buy a tool to remove the nrv. Other than a washer set and some brasso I think that's it. Does anyone have any tips for cleaning up the heat shield and tank? I'm presuming just brasso elbow grease and patience should do it. I can't see evidence of the cleaning needle poking through the jet when I turn the control all the way 'on' - should I be able to? (I know from having tilley lamps that you can just see when the cleaning needle seats itself in the jet). As for the box I've read plenty here about paint and rust removal and how best to paint it. I just need to decide what colour, clearly the red isn't original. I'm thinking maybe the classic pale blue colour. I may be able to see the original colour when I strip off the red who knows?
Don t use Brasso on the tank, it's ammonia based and will in the long run damage the brass. Grab some autosol.
@noise_boy 1. That is not a standard Primus-type pressure release valve and filler cap. The proper ones have a pointed end that seats in a concave fitting in the cap. I’m can’t vouch for its ability to form a good seal. You will have to test it under pressure. If it was my stove I’d buy a proper Optimus 111 filler cap. Someone here might have one. 2. Don’t use Brasso. It contains too much ammonia and compromises the integrity of the brass. If you want to polish, use Autosol or Mothers. 3. Clean the heat shield with an engine cleaner. Then give it the once over with Autosol or Mothers. 4. Dilute your vinegar 3:1 and keep an eye on the brass. Don’t let it turn copper. Cheers Tony Edit: that’s the kero burner.
Well I've finally got around to making a start on this. I've cleared the soot from the jet and started cleaning everything up by soaking in citric acid according to instructions I've read on other posts here. The fuel filter gauze roll is in ok condition but should I be able to see right through the middle of the roll? It's like a tube at the moment, is that just how it is or should I re roll it? I only use decent paraffin and strain it before use, is the filter only for big particles? Also, any tips for getting the pot stands out? I'm a bit reluctant to use too much force but would make painting easier if they were out.
@noise_boy Your gauze should be fine. Just clear any carbon off it. You can unroll it and roll it back to the same shape. The filter does two things. Most important it helps keep the fuel hot aiding burning; secondarily, it filters, but clean fuel is more important. Getting the pot rests out is a matter of squeeze, jiggle and pull. They could be fused by rust or crud. Be careful not to bend them out of shape. You will probably end up scratching your paintwork putting them back, but that’s no big deal. Cheers Tony
There's a Hammerite, hammered finish light blue spray that is kinda close and it's not that expensive. If you know anyone with a sandblasting booth to remove the paint or electrolysis if you have a battery charger handy or use paint stripper and a rust converter. There's threads about all those on this site and YouTube tutorials a plenty.
Thanks @Tony Press I'll try and coax them out... I've cleaned up the various bits about as best I can with a citric acid soak and some elbow grease. I'm concerned that the inside of the burner is still pretty dirty - is soaking it in carb cleaner an option? I've done the same with vapouriser tubes from tilley lamps. Are there better ways of making sure the burner insides are clean enough?
@noise_boy You can heat the burner up with a propane torch until dull red and tap the burner on a wood block to get the carbon out. Take the nipple and other fittings off first. Then use carburettor cleaner and a pipe cleaner. Cheers Tony
