Hi I am working on an old AGM Coleman 520 - everything comes fairly easy apart - but the regulator spindle!! I have loosend the nut and removed the graphite sealing (intact!) The spindle iself moves freely and easy - but when unscrewed all out - it comes to a “hard and firm” halt. What to do here? Use a certain amount of force - or heat or? Right now its soaking in some very thin rust-loosener. Thanks
@ArchMc Thank you - not that much since the diagram is for the 502 ;-)) I have the diagram - but in doubt whether to turn it counter clockwise with force when it comes to a halt.
@Harder D. Soerensen I think just past the graphite seal you removed is a brass bushing with a concave recess toward the valve knob. This has the purpose of expanding the graphite to form a leak proof seal and to deal with the heat generated when burner is working. Just past this bushing is a brass ring to keep it all in place. you just need to unscrew the nut and turn the stem out all the way and pull the stem out forcing the bushing ring to squeeze tight enough to remove the valve stem. It will take some effort to remove the stem. The stem will not break off in this procedure.
Here's a couple links to parts diagrams. The valve stem should come out once the gland nut and packing are out of the way. Usually the packing is the only thing that makes it hard to remove the stem. Use a light and check if there might be some packing still left in the valve body. The 530 stem is the same as the 520 so the diagram below is valid. As mentioned above, there is a brass ring on the inboard side of the packing. On reassembly make sure the concave side of the ring faces the wire ring that is crimped on the valve stem. http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/diagrams/520.jpg http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/tech/scans/530.gif Good luck.
Hello @Harder D. Soerensen. Use the penetrant and a little heat but not too much. Just get it smoking a bit. Try pulling then. If no luck put more penetrant while it is still warm and let soak till cool. I have found that while cooling the penetrant gets drawn in better and will somewhat soften the packing. Careful don't bugger the splines for the control knob. Good luck.
@Harder D. Soerensen I pulled my 520 valve stem out and have a pic to show you on how it looks internally. So first the earlier comment I made is incorrect the bushing is probably made from steel and the conical shape in the bushing faced the brass retainer ring, the retainer ring faces the raised ring that is part of the shaft. You will see the assembly once you remove the valve stem. Removing mine required opening the valve fully and unscrewing the gland nut all the way until it stops against the valve wheel, then open the valve wheel again until the valve stem just spins, then finish unscrewing the gland nut. Pull the valve stem out with the wheel installed. A bit of force may be applied between the brass fitting and the gland nut using a hard wood like oak or a slice of brass scrap. Just do not use a wrench, you could damage the threads of the valve body or the gland nut.
Thank you all so very much - especially to @HercL4D2 for dissamblying your own. By a candid combination of swearing, heat, some thin solvent and force, i managed to get it apart. That thing wanted to stay like it was!! Again - thank you all!
