I bought my Holy and Venerable 111T Hiker back in 1989 for $89.99, and it's been a Staff of Life for me over those years. I just couldn't function without it. It pisses me off no end that I can't buy another. The last 111T on EBay - and rather beat up - was sold within hours of posting for the larcenous sum of $220USD + shipping. I've had mine re-built by A&H about four times now.......I'm getting a wee bit paranoid. When did Optimus discontinue the T (triple fuel)??
Inflation may have some part in that, as well as the quality of the stove. I have seen lowere prices also.
I have a T I didn't like it at first-probably too quiet for me. I didn't ever have a kerosene stove and 1st time lighting it I thought something was wrong-now used to it.
I'd be interested in knowing what A&H did and charged you for, four times. These stoves are easily serviceable and should run a lifetime, or until some brass part cracks. And even that can be usually be fixed by folks with more skills than I.
This is what I get for missing Staff meetings............ Over about 7(?) years, I've had A&H rebuild the stove four times at $50 per. Each time was the same problem: pre-burning. With alcohol (only). The stove always burned beautifully after their rebuilds.
So, complete rebuild. I wonder what they thought the problem was. Or did they simply replace everything. "problem: pre-burning" ... Can you explain? Did using alcohol to prime cause or fix the problem? Did you prime with white gas or kerosene? Might be a good idea to learn how to rebuild it yourself.
From what research I did here on this forum, the ethanol somehow ignites before is reaches the outer cap.........causing the entire upper burner to start glowing, first dull red, then orange and up. The problem was bad enough that it actually warped the burner assembly. It still functions just fine, but it does look a bit odd I always prime with ethanol. I have a couple of small squirt bottles full. My "Optimus Ritual" is to squirt fuel on the top cap, enough so that it drips into the priming dish....just enough and no more. Then I ignite the priming cup with a long match, the tip of which had a quick douse in the fuel tank. Once the priming has burned out completely, I open the tank screw cover to vent any excess pressure, then tighten it back on again. 5 quick pumps on the piston and the burner is ready to light. Since I do not know exactly what causes the pre-burn, I'll stick to the Pros at A&H, probably the only case of my handing off a device of any kind to be repaired.......99% of the machines/devices/hodads I own I fix myself, and most have be modified and/or rebuilt to my design.....
I don't know about you but I don't open the cap on a stove that is burning. To me its just bad practice depending on the fuel-since I use Coleman fuel 99% of the time.
He opens it after the priming flame has gone out. I am not sure what that accomplishes. I do see that you pump the tank after that. I do not normally use a pump, except in cold weather. I immediately light the stove when the priming flame goes out. There is enough pressure from the pre-heat to supply plenty of fuel. (Except in cold weather). Slowly opening the valve as the burner get hotter. I see now. We call that UnderBurn here.
Underburning that often without shutting off to the point of damage is a little worrying. Accepting that silents are prone if over pressurised, the damage should be home fixed I would have thought.
Hi @rattinox . One of my all-time favourite stoves is the original Op.111 roarer burner model. However, I also rate the Op.111T very highly. There have been a few reports on CCS of abnormal flame patterns and under-burn on Op.111T stoves by members. Have a read of this long thread: Optimus 111T burner fault - A mystery solved! Best Regards, Kerophile.
@rattinox Thanks for the additional info on your stove. I found it interesting that you have exclusively burned alcohol in your stove. Not everyone has good luck finding the proper restrictor tube for burning alcohol in the 111T to their satisfaction. I'd suggest that if you start having similar problems again, come back here with some pictures and such and you are likely to get a few suggestions and tips to try before you send it off for and expensive rebuild. Also, keep looking for another stove if that is what you want, you will eventually find a reasonable deal.
Many thanks for the replies and support! I've dug up priceless gold info on this forum over the last couple of years. I'm well aware that I'm in a minority of Optimus (or any stove) users who rely on ethanol fuel only. I really do have logical reasons why I took that path. Just in my insufferable Elitist nature to sneer at those absurd little "chafing dish" alcohol stoves. I have no intention of reading through the whole Iliad while the water comes to boil. FYI, Mr Vegan Greenpeace I'm not.
The only chance to win a 111T on fleabay is to luckily catch a "buy it now" sale as soon it posts. I got a great 111T the other day for $120 on ebay within an hour of listing. If the seller had known folks are nuts for these stoves it would have bid it up on auction at double if not tripled what I paid him. Sometimes though a few go at bidding of under $200 lately, but they are often rust buckets with need of certain fettling. My guess is that the seller I paid 120 must have did his sold researches based off the roarer 111b and not the silent 111T. I look at it this way...There is no stove made today that I'd pay over $100 for, especially msr and their plastic crap pumps, so I have no problem paying a bit more for timeless classic swedish quality.