Dumped out the old fuel, outside the tank it was slightly cloudy and going amber. Rinsed out the tank with fresh fuel until black bits stopped coming out; I fear the wick may not be in the best shape. A good old fashioned soap and water scrubbing, and then put the large pot on to boil. It would get right to the brink of boiling, but ultimately was unable to do so without the lid on, nor would it maintain a boil without the lid. Putting the lid on for about 30 seconds got it there, though. Afterwards: No soot on the pot. I've yet to change the SRV pip or cap gasket, there might be some performance gained there. What say ye folks, is this how a 123 is supposed to behave or is there more there? Thanks everyone, I very truly appreciate the help and advice.
My 123s boil the big Sigg pot near full of cold river water in short order every time in the backwoods. As many of my posts have shown, it's a steak fryer and an egg and sausage fryer, too. But if you had to say what it was made for, it's boiling water! Sometimes we have the lid on and sometimes not. Always somewhat faster with the lid, but I've never experienced failure-to-boil without lid, or a 'falling off' as you describe. Remember, the Svea 123 was sold for years as a climbing stove, a snow-melter and water-boiler at high altitudes. Your flame picture looks good. But it should be boiling water to heavy roll without problems. Can't say I've ever timed it, but it's never seemed slow!
I cannot comment on the boiling, something else at play? Nice flame. It had been going a while? Tank good and hot?
@Ed Winskill Thank you sir, definitely some gains to be had if that's what it's supposed to be doing! @snwcmpr Aye cap'n, tank good and hot. Ran for ~1/2 hour? I was proud of myself, I even remembered to pull the control key off and leave it sitting on the table.
If you purchased the 123 from eBay, and there was 12 bids in the auction, my bids were 18 & $21. Recognised the polish on the fount & vaporiser & missing the flame plate.
Sorry Pyro, you weren't far from out bidding me! Ken, your avatar looks much more powerful. Clearly mine needs work.
Mine is a 1st Version Sievert. BD had told me I needed my Svea to have more flame. Cleaned, new seals and wick, and HOT!!
Loosen fill cap, put stove in freezer for a bit, remove, tighten cap, and stick in pot of warm water. Will build pressure inside font and bubble from any poor seals. A fill cap gasket on these usually makes a huge difference.
Thanks gents. Seals and flame spreader arrived yesterday, too busy to do anything with them though. Hopefully I get a few minutes over the weekend to fab up a penta wrench and replace seals.
@Marc You may have tried this and I missed it. Have you tried switching caps with your 8R just to check if therein lies the problem? I am assuming the 8R was working ok. I am another fan of the 123R with Sigg kit -- boiling water should be relatively quick and painless.
Thanks Itchy. 8R works fine, or at least "fine", with me having nothing to compare it to until now. No speed demon but no problems boiling a percolator. I should do the hot water dunk test on both. Lately I've been so busy that any time I devote to stoving must be subtracted from time I have for sleeping(posting here while on hold on the phone notwithstanding). Hoping to get on top of it this weekend, fingers crossed.
I was just making a cuppa in the shop with a 123, I was distracted with a project so I can't say how quick, but it seemed very quick for the kettle to be steaming. I'm sure you will get your 123 tuned up easily.
It'll seem like forever if you stand watching it, and boil dry as soon as you look away. Stoves are also capable of altering time preception. It only seems like yesterday I joined the forum, I can probably keep our street lit and fed with hot food now. And I don't collect lamps.
+1 on the Sigg kit with 123R. I also use the Bernie Dawg cap which makes it a good simmering stove as well. And makes it quieter if that means anything to you. Brad
Morning folks. Seals and flame spreader arrived. Fabbed up a penta wrench out of a suitable donor Allen wrench. Can't see it in the photo but I marked the location of the SRV holder in relation to the cap and was going to keep track of the turns, but the darned thing wouldn't move. Tried some heat, no go. Plonked it in my ATF/kero mix bucket and will forget it for awhile and let it work.
Hi @Marc. ATF/ Kero might be the go-to mixture for rusted, seized joints but to shift Thread-lock you need a solvent to soften/dissolve the resin binder binding the threads together. ACETONE is the preferred solvent. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Thank you sir, didn't realize they were thread locked! I'll procure some acetone forthwith. Edit: That's probably listed in a dozen threads already, if I'd done my proper reading on the 123.
