Hello, today at our local antique swap I picked up this Coleman Solus stove base for a song. Looked it up on-line and found this great web site. It’s stamped Made In USA / Coleman / Solus. It has the Bear Claw feet. The tank is in great shape as well as the cap, pump and old seal. So what’s the chance of finding the burner assy, new pump seal and the pot legs? The pictures I’m finding of these cleaned up are beautiful. Thanks for any help or advise in advance. Mike
Welcome to CCS and congratulations on finding that Solus! If you're hoping to find original Coleman Solus parts, you're out of luck unless you get very lucky. The good news is that burners and such for these stoves are interchangeable with those made for the (much more common) Swedish stoves, like Primus and Optimus. There are several stores where you can buy these, but for a good place to start, follow the link on the home page to the Fettlebox (its owner runs this site), select "Stove Parts", and scroll down. You will soon find roarer and silent burners for two-pint stoves. Either burner should work with your stove. (Solus was available with either burner.) Search the store and you will also find pump leathers and fuel cap gasket (this should be replaced if it's not pliable, and it must be replaced with fuel-resistant rubber.) It's a good idea to write a note to the store owner (Spiritburner) and tell him what you're buying parts for. He will help you get things sorted out. (Be patient; this is not his day job.) Buying legs may be a bit of a problem. When they're available, they tend to be expensive for what they are. Many of us make our own from steel rod. Search this site, and you'll find discussions on how to do that. Again, welcome and best wishes getting your Solus running. ....Arch Edit: If your pump leather is still in one piece, it's worth while trying to revive it. Just soak it in mineral oil for a couple of days, working the oil into the leather occasionally with your fingers. No reason to remove the leather from the pump shaft to do this.
Thanks for responding Arch and for all the helpful hints. The pump leather looks great. I’ll get it soaking. The cork/rubber cap gasket looks decent too but I’ll look into getting another. So I take it these other burners will thread right into the stem on the Solus? I imagine there’s an orifice in the burner? I don’t see a valve but image you rotate the burner disc to adjust the flow? (I’m a newby to all this so I’m looking for diagrams, photos and videos to learn) Thanks again for your help. I’m excited to get this all polished up and maybe running. If not, at least looking good!!
@Mike Lantz Have a good rummage around the site. There are instructions on how to use paraffin/kerosene stoves. Your stove relies purely on the pressure in the fount, higher pressure bigger flames, release pressure to lower output. They are extremely simple pieces of engineering. Hopefully once you have the missing pieces and you need a few pointers we're all here to help.
You use that little air screw below the filler cap to release pressure, thus dampening the flame. Lots of specific instruction here at CCS when you get it all set up. A great classic....
I agree about exploring the site for answers. That will give you some idea on whether you want a roarer or silent burner, for example. The burners in Fettlebox are complete, including the orifice. (You will also want to get a pricker, to clean the orifice. Talk to Spiritburner.) Yes, the correct size burner will thread right on to the stem. (When writing my earlier response, I removed a burner from a Primus #1 and swapped burners with my Solus. Both fit perfectly, as I knew they would.) If your cap gasket is cork, or cork and rubber, it might still work. I would see if it still holds pressure. A leak test (search for that on the site) will tell all. ....Arch
@Mike Lantz Welcome to CCS. You will also need the spirit cup that fits under the burner. This is for heating up the burner prior to ignition. When you get all the pieces together and start to think about lighting it remember this is a Kerosene (paraffin ) stove. Do not use gasoline as a fuel. Gasoline can result in a fireball. Good luck and ask questions when needed.
or, correct burner, silent. Coleman Solus, USA - 1950 * If you are looking for replacement Solus parts, you might try looking/asking on the Coleman Collector's Forum.
not sure which "way" you mean. you show the correct roarer, mine shows the correct silent. for reference for the op. the factory paperwork shows both burner assemblies, so either is 'correct'. since the op basically has a fount and not much else, he could take either route. regardless, finding original Coleman Solus parts could prove to be a challenge.
Thanks Everyone! I sure appreciate all the willingness to help. It looks like theres really a chance now I could get this antique running again. (I have a lot to read and learn first) Thanks Kerophile, the link to How it Works and lightning instructions was very informative. I have found here on the site the 2 possible burners, burner gasket and Spirit cup. I’ll search for legs before attempting to make them and it appears I may never find the top pot ring but I’ll keep looking. Have a lot of cleaning to do first so I can do a pump, gasket and pressure check. I’ll probably be back for advice so Thanks All in advance. ML
Hey Mike, welcome to CCS. I didn't see it mentioned, but an NRV pip will likely be a good idea as well.
Yes, but then he'll also need an NRV tool. I would advise checking the pump first and seeing if the NRV leaks. Good idea to go ahead and order the pip, though -- it's cheap, you'll need it eventually, and it will save on shipping to get it when you get your other parts. @Mike Lantz NRV stands for Non-Return Valve. It's a one-way valve that sits at the bottom of the pump tube and allows air to be pumped into the tank, but prevents fuel from the pressurized tank from flowing into the pump. It works with a spring and a rubber "pip". If it needs servicing, the entire valve has to be removed from the pump tool with a special tool. You can find (and should read) lots of posts that discuss this issue. I think we should cross that bridge when (if) we come to it. ....Arch
