This is a quick overview of the BRS 8B. I have not had time to fully play with the thing as my reviews take 6 months but as there is lil info about this top of the line Chinese manufactured Multi Fuel stove I thought I would make a post here. I have used other Chinese multifuel burners such as APG, Jeebel Camp and other clone " Insert random english name here... " I have got to say this although looks the same really is a great improvement versus the Chinese competition. Basic specs. Weighs 545g with the fuel bottle given which is like the other BRS products a 530ml bottle that should only be filled upto 450ml. Stove stand minus burner and preheating tube weighs 187g. Pump is a BRS-8 BRS-27 Pump which is specific as of now only for this stove system. It has two stages , should be green and has P AND B. You have to twist the fuel line on to the fuel bottle intake without using the knob which does not rotate. see pictures to tell the difference. 1ltr bottles were purchased separately. How it works? Unlike the other Chinese multi fuel stoves that require pump, relief, light, preheat for 30-60 secs, then blast on the relief valve, this one is peculiar. If you have used a Soto Muka, it is very similar preheating operation. make sure relief valve is closed 1. Set knob notch to P. 2. pump until knob relief valve, which is the indicator for the preheating air intake system shows or denotes a red ring. 3. release relief valve about halfway to full.... 4. light as soon as possible and adjust to full ..... ish. You will have to fiddle with it. ( It will come out pressurised, that is fine and how it supposed to be ) 5. switch the knob on the green control knob from P TO B..... Then lay fuel bottle on its stand. Know that it will sputter tiny bit with yellow flames, i spoke to the manufacturer a while back and they have said that is how the preheat works, it is pressurised to turn into a near vapor state when once heated helps to heat the whole tube and fuel line turning the liquid into vapor faster. on 91 octane & 95 octane on the old style Chinese burners, it takes about 40 seconds to go from sputtering to easy to relief the valve. This new system takes only 20 secs maximum in my tests so far. Because the preheat is when it is on, it helps with the heat to heat the whole assembly faster to get the fuel to ideal vapor conditions. Versus, relief a lil, ignite, wait for a min or under, then relief to whack it on full bore. NOW IS IT TRICKERY? A marketing scam. The system so far with petrol does work, yet to try with other fuels but for its intend function YEP super awesome. Kudos to BRS for a thought out design. Conclusions I look forward to rigours of hardcore Bushman testing in the dirt with this. Just a great change compared to other Multi Fuel burners. Build quality on my unit is exceptional. Design whilst use base parts is well thought out for its designers intentions and use case. I purchased this with GST for $ 136.78 NZD on ALIX ( Taobao is cheaper) which is pretty decent. I bought this for the features more so then the " But it is cheaper " part. PROS: Lighter then some other chinese multi fuel burners. Faster preheat by half. Fuel line is at a swivelling right angle, it rotates and is not just stuck in a fixed position. ( See pictures ) Seals are better, with tighter clearances on all contact points of fuel lines. CONS: Tool does not work for nut fixing the burner assembly to the base stand. A learning curve. Unusual operation order due to preheating system. Needs to have the hole for ignition to be larger although DIY will fix it to make it easier for a match, ferro rod sparks or lighter to ignite the " vapor " gas when it is on ready for go time. Stand is overkill for most pots, to large, could be a tad smaller.
Here is a translated, mega budget translation in English of the manual. Uploaded images of the manual as well to follow along with the translation to picture and what is trying to be conveyed. Oil bottle pressurization 3 ignition operation Before the pressure is applied , check whether the valve is in the closed state (keep it closed). Turn the air access door clockwise to P ( fully open). Start pressurization, repeated pumping pressure pump; until the pressure finger ejected more than one half. 5. The oil bottle stand, ignite the outer boundary Fire, open the valve door opening and closing, rotating to the maximum fire. 6. Close the air valve door and bring the oil bottle down . 7. Close the door after use ,after 3 seconds to blow out the flame, please keep the stove clean. 8. At the end of the combustion operation, use a pressure relief valve to remove pressure to extend the service life . 1 day Red line position Day その そ Open valve Vendors Close the valve door page 1 Warning Using the guide Please read the instructions before use Click : www.brs.net.cn RS-8B operation video, familiar method of operation , to use the product Fuel added 1. Open the oil bottle, add oil about 450ml (there is a degree), add fuel to tighten the bottle. It is used in books, rooms or other closures In a closed environment , the combustion of the stoves will consume oxygen gas, and in a closed environment, the use of the stoves will cause people to Death. ; 烈 晒 或 或 它 它高 环 环 环中 用用 strong sun or other high-temperature environment used ; Oil leakage immediately stop using ; Construction precision, do not disassemble and modify ; Far away from inflammable and explosive objects ; Do not place the head hand and other flammable items above the stove to avoid burns ; Products. Stop! Page 2 Divide the head Temporary traffic jam maintenance Bowl fixed nut Inner bowl Body opening and closing Pressurized handle Nozzle During use , the valve can be closed if there is a small flame or no flame After the flame is extinguished, it is directly connected with the needle, and if it is not resolved, maintenance and maintenance are required . Preheat tube - Filter core Steel wire Stone cotton mesh Maintenance valve Air valve door Furnace body Light, no light. - Oil bottle a) Preheat tube fixed nut page 3 Nozzle maintenance 2 maintenance and maintenance Care and maintenance 1. Verify that the valve is in the closed position. 2. Use tools (stove with a set of tools) to open the fire head. 1. With a tool set Jane gas nozzle. 2. Use the tool through the needle through the air nozzle. 3. The end of the spray oil cleaning agent cleaning, to ensure that the nozzle without impurities . 4. Set the stoves upside down, with the tools will maintain the culture of Unscrewed. Tell. Before maintenance, keep away from fire source and inflammable and explosive material, and close the oil pump valve door . If you have just finished using the stove, please wait until the stove is completely cold before maintenance, to avoid injury . Care and maintenance Fault inspection 1. The stove inverted, counterclockwise open valve door opening and closing, so that a carbonaceous material and spray out . 2. Back to the nozzle, card back to the fire head. Page 4
Nice intro first post. Thanks for all the pics and input. Keep us updated on how it holds up to your needs. Using some of the extra pressurized air to atomize fuel for priming is no longer trickery for stoves designed to burn the more flamable fuels (petrol, etc). Is there still a priming pad in the burner for heavier fuels -- I seem to have gathered that these stoves get mixed reviews when burning kerosene.
Will do Itchy. yes there is, i believe it is an aramid type fiberglass similar to the rest of the Chinese bruners that use the same stand type. I have yet to try with the following fuels: Kerosene, Diesel, Mineral Turprentine I wanted to post a quick intro to the stove as not really many have documented this particular model from China. I will post updates as they arise, i am off Uni for a week so i might go to the bush and try it out for a few days sand see how it goes, time dependant.
Never ever ever put kerosene in the bottle is the best I can say for it. Great on naptha and gas though. I really should rebuild mine for kero burning.
we dont have naptha in Aotearoa. I will try it on kero, but from other burners like this, they do sputter, with diesel, they sputter aton, more really for does it work and research purposes.
the Turps would be interesting thou to use, i have used it although not ideal or optimal in trangia type stoves
The pre heat tube is seriously inefficient for heavier fuel fractions like kerosene. Naptha = petrol/gasoline or alternatives there of. Pump petrol is generally not advised due to the additives for use in engines. Fuel for 4 stroke portable power tools eg grass strimmers don't have the nasties added.
Pump petrol is generally okay to use. We use that here for petrol powered grass whackers sounds like a upper northern hemisphere thing judging by your terms on fuel types
okay did some testing preliminary with Turps aka White Spirit, it works, bit dirtier, takes only 35 seconds on the preheat on this from flame to stop to vaporise properly. Takes 1:20 ish secs on the older or the other chinese models of Brs8 and other burners so it is still faster on the preheat with 2 fuels so far. Wont try kero as that is really way too dirty. I used 100% turps no additives so it does work but simmer does not, just good for heating water or melting snow with turps.
Welcome to CCS @RDBushman Great first post. Naptha in New Zealand = Shellite. The additives in Pump petrol (gasoline) will clog the generator but compared to turps and diesel probably not to bad.
yeah i always found normal gasoline pretty good compared to other fuels. Turps worked yesterday, bit dirtier but fires on the preheat really quick and only took half a minute. Kero i have used on the older models of the brs8 and yeah it is very dirty similar to diesel. Cheers mate
BRS-8B is designed with reference to China's No. 92 unleaded gasoline. Not suitable for use with diesel and kerosene, Although the manufacturer gave a diesel nozzle as a gift, the combustion effect was not good.
I have an earlier version of it. I like the idea but found for me it was just so unresponsive due to the valve being at the tank you turn it off and a few mins later it starts to shut down. Even on a cylinder. Tried it yesterday and it took 1.5 mins to shut down from a gas cylinder. I know its really a 'boiler' but not keen on the delay. Is the new one any better?
An interesting update the secondary air input to remove the need for priming, and a bonus carry case. The instructions aren't a great deal better than the ones that came with the Booster/BRS8 I have. Another review can be found here. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/brs-8a-better-adapted-for-kerosene.40055/#post-420836. The Booster box and literature only suggests gas and white gasoline, so just dual fuel. I may try modifying a nipple to 0.23mm as an experiment.
