good evening to you all it is since a long time I haven't written anything but I have read a lot on this site learning a lot. I made my own project because I wanted a stove that was simple, reliable but with little maintenance. But now I would like your advice because I can't get a more powerful blue flame. I state that there are two new burners never used, the first is a PRIMUS and the second is an OPTIMUS. A thin stainless steel mesh filter is inserted in the pipe. What do you think? link video michelangelo
Hunch: Are the fuel inlet tubes steel? Do you maybe have less than optimal vaporization? Radiant heat must transfer from burner, below burner, and pre ghesat fule that is heading to the burner. IF thermal mass of fuel in tank and fuel in inlet tubes and the inlet plumbing itself radiates more cold than the burner radiates heat down... this maybe a problem. Less than optimal fuel vaporization.
Can you swap the burners to an original fount/tank? If not too modified do they work ok there? Generally over rich flames are due to enlarged nipple holes.
This advise is under the condition, this is a stove for kerosene as fuel. Is there a pump? Air bleed? Take off the wind shield from the burners (air intake is too restricted) and start with very low pressure for several minutes until the burner is really hot. The heath feedback to the burner would be better with brass tubes with narrower diameter. Instead of a stainless steel mesh, you could fill the vertical part of the thick tubes with copper wires to get better thermal conduct. Radler
Good morning and thank you all for the speeches and questions you ask me are making me think a lot. Anyway I add that the fuel is kero, the pipes are chromed but in brass and when I finished the test yesterday, the wind barrier had soot that was removed with a finger. I replaced the nipples by checking the size of the hole with a finger pricker and mounting the smaller ones of diameter I guess are 0.23 mm. I ran the test without and with the flame arrestors and nothing has changed. In your opinion, could something change if you put a wick inside the riser pipe to slow down the fuel and therefore give it time to vaporize?
sorry for not mentioning earlier VERY IMPRESSIVE WORK !! I see thread sealer on both burners. On many Swedish versions brass on brass threaded fittings do not require thread sealer. In fact, brass on brass w/o sealer provides maximum surface connection... there is solid uninterrupted thermal conductivity by design which is ideal. Maybe use a blowtorch carefully increase heat onto fuel inlet pipes below burner. If flame improves, this maybe helps direct your way forward? Adding more mass to vaporization/below burner is problematic but at least for test, something else (quick, for same effect) you might add wire/metal ribbon from flame down and wrap onto fuel inlet. See if flame improves. I defer to Radler as he has already suggested improve by adding copper wire inside inlet. Heat transfer to fuel inlet was a known problem for a Russian stove btw with after market internal fix: involved a cable inserted into fuel tubing. This is a white gas stove, the fix works in 3 ways, conductor for more heat downward, reduces amount of cooling fuel in pipe, increases surface area / increases heat transfer ability to improve vaporization. Thermal conductive brass *works both ways, the bulky larger cold fuel inlet piping is suspect. caveat: my word is "suspect". I do not know with certainty your best way forward or wisest improvement to make. *Suspicion is, currently the cooling transfer in the fuel inlet is greater than the heat transfer down from the burners. -------------------------------------- Another "hunch": There is a reason fule pipes are positioned upright of at upward angle to burner. IF your pipes are open tank to burner and horizontal, that positioning allows fuel in the inlet to be heated, convection flow is created, the heated fuel on top half of pipe will rise flowing up and back into the cool tank, constant flow of cooled fuel flowing down into bottom half of horizontal pipe. IF this indeed might be of concern, simple fixes come to mind (vs repiping) ie: place restrictor plate into horizontal pipe below the tank, the plate having a hole near the bottom of the pipe, trapping heated fuel / preventing it from escaping back into tank.
actually the section of the riser pipe being so large favors the heat exchange by lowering the temperature of the fuel inside it. I would like to try as you say OMC, put a limiter and then I would like to try to thermally insulate the riser pipe in these days of insulation we have more time for hobbies. I wanted a stove to carry around without the fear that it would get damaged but I realize that the technicians primus valor radius coleman etc. 80 years ago, they weren't stupid and they could think without a computer about things that still work well today. now I do some experiments and then I will let you know. thanks for everything and good quarantine Michelangelo
