This is easier than it looks, and is it best to practice on a wrecked burner to gain confidence. This was done on an Coleman burner, where trying to remove the broken nipple as in Part 1 proved impossible. Cut off the two tubes containing the nipple seat with a hacksaw. Do NOT clean up the cut surfaces. The photo below shows the results of trying to remove the broken nipple threads on this burner using the technique outlined in Part 1. First drill out the old nipple using a 4mm drill, then re-thread with a 4.5mm tap (0.5mm pitch). Test fit and then remove a normal size nipple Flux and 'tin' the two cut surfaces (Easyflo flux, Silver Flo 55 braze) Flux the un-tinned cut surfaces and fit the burner together again. when you are happy with the alignment, wedge the pieces together and then reheat until the braze melts all around the joints, adding more braze rod if necessary. Clean up the joints and leak test underwater. (I fit a blank jet, and use a bicycle pump connected to the threaded end of the burner). Refit the jet, refit the burner to the stove and test. IMHO, this is a much easier repair than Part 1.
Wonderful. What would you recommend as a brazing torch - is the usual canister with screw-on burner good enough for this?
I tend to use 100 propane from a 13kg tank. I have a Bullfinch torch with two nozzles but I use the large nozzle most of the time and adjust the flame via the flowrate If I am out of the workshop, I do occasionally used 70/30 butane/ propane canisters with the screw on torch, but I find mine (a Taymar) produces a flame that is too fierce and oxidizing, so I adjust the air flow with a copper sleeve.
