Early Radius 12 and the infinite sadness

Ok, tanks repaired successfully, the repair is ugly, like war scars... I don’t have special tools or skills, just like on the war field So I am satisfied with the result considering that I have never done these things before.

Obviously the nice patina has been removed, something that I never do if not necessary. The tanks now keep pressure very well, every part is cleaned and fettled.

Tonight the burn test.

Thanks to everybody for the help and suggestions,

Nicola

 

I want to point out, as said 2 posts ago, that the cracks were not thin and smooth, the rounded shape of the tank was lost, so the need of extra solder to cover the canyon.

I wasn’t able to make it better than this and so amen. I hope it will be effective and last in the future.

Nicola

 

@Nicola Francesco Elia I say you’ve made a fine job of it, with a sturdy bead of solder to seal the cracks and strong enough to prevent an existing crack opening up again, as it might have done with the tank pressurised and a thin skim of solder for appearance’ sake.

Underside of the tanks too, not visible when stove’s in use. Job done.

John

 

Hi John,

I appreciate! My intention was to make a clean job but as you can see in the next image if the crack was linear, thin with the tank shape intact that would have been possible. But the crack opened up the tank shape and was irregular so a clean solder was not an option, I had to cover the crack and include the area around it to make it stronger.

First sketch represents a crack that could be fixed in a clean way, second sketch represents the cracks I had to face. The red is the solder.

Nicola

 

@Nicola Francesco Elia Indeed. You did the right thing.

 

@Nicola Francesco Elia - re. the point made earlier about the metal being repeatedly stretched and relaxed as the tank is pressurised and de-pressurised; in my opinion (for what it's worth) solder is a very good metal to use for the repair for two reasons.
Firstly, from the smooth and glossy look of the solder, I think you have used a type of solder with a high lead content; if I'm correct in that, the solder will be very resistant to cracking under repeated pressurising / de-pressurising, as lead just doesn't go brittle;
Secondly, when you make a good solder joint, the solder doesn't sit on the surface of the metal parts being joined (as superglue does); it penetrates right into the grain structure of the metal being soldered - as wood glue does into a piece of wood - and as both the lead and the tin in solder are very compatible with the copper content of the brass, you'll get a very strong bond indeed.

HTH, and best regards,
Gunner

 

Grand job, Nicola. Well done.

 

Thanks guys!

@Gunner yes I used a lead soft solder because it’s softness should absorb the pressure stress.

I tried it and it works fine, no leaks or anything, also if I damaged the fiber washer of the left burner when I over tightened the burner to align it, so I have to put a new washer and repeat the test.

Nicola

 

@Nicola Francesco Elia - I thought so; I've never seen a lead-free solder which has that glossy finish to it, and I know a lot of amateur radio enthusiasts who build their own gear won't use the lead-free solder, because its dull and rather grainy finish makes it so hard to spot if you've made a 'dry joint' (one where the solder hasn't properly bonded to the metals being joined).
Nice job! and best regards,
Gunner

 

Excellent work, @Nicola Francesco Elia.

Cheers

Tony

 

Thank you very much @Gunner and @Tony Press

Nicola

 

Very well done - another fine stove saved!

 

It's cleaned up nicely Nicola and the repair is more than adequate. Congratulations

 

Thanks @ROBBO55 Ibreally appreciate!

Nicola