Svea 123R Shutoff Problem vs Svea 123

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by KeithY, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. KeithY

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    I feel like an idiot on this and have read the various shut off fettles, but I am still having problems. I'm a Scoutmaster and have purchased six Svea 123R for Troop camping, plus three Svea 123 for my personal use. Most (including the 123s) were used, and I cleaned them, replaced all the tank gaskets, and replaced some of the jets (if required). All burn fine, and the 123s run and shutoff great. However, NONE of the 123Rs will shut off now, including 2 of which were bought new from A&H. I've tried changing the needle height on a few but still no joy. I'm beginning to wonder if my "test method" is leading to a internal carbon problem??? Once I cleaned/repaired the used stoves (left new ones as delivered), I lit each and let them burn for perhaps 10 minutes. I then turned the key clockwise to shut them off and several did the first time (only). I waited perhaps 30 seconds, then lit a match and held it near the jets. I then turned the key for each CCW, thereby re-lighting the stoves without further priming, since they were still hot. I waited a little while longer (5 minutes?) and tried turning them off again. At that point, none would shut off completely, not even the new ones. Instead I get the small blue residual jet , as so often described herein. The 123s will. Why would the 123R version be more difficult??? I've been fooling with these so long the front doorstep that I sure the neighbors are beginning to wonder what I'm doing. ["Honest officer, I'm trying to fix a bunch of stoves. I'm not making illegal substances." ] Any ideas?
     
  2. bark2much

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    MAybe trying this will help.

    1) Remove the jet from the 123R's burner stem, and turn the spindle counter-clockwise.
    2) The needle will rise. Remove it out of the stem.
    3) Turn the spindle all the way clockwise, and then correctly insert the needle in the stem.
    4) While holding down the needle gently with your fingertip, turn the spindle counter-clockwise, as if you are opening the fuel supply.
    5) Count 4 clicks, as the teeth of the spindle slips over the lower end of the needle.
    6) Close the fuel supply by turning clockwise, and reassemble.

    Now the fuel should shut off when you want it. If the operation does not yield according to your expectation, try 3 clicks or 5 clicks, whatever works best for your particular stove.
     
  3. algentry1

    algentry1 Subscriber

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    I have 2 123Rs that I got from Bob at A & H.

    The one that I've lit, won't shut off immediately when I turn it off. There's a small jet of flame that continues to come out of the jet. I think that it is unburned fuel that's still in the vaporizer.

    Leave the stove turned off, and it will eventually go out on its own.

    If you use a midi pump, it will continue to run when turned off, if you pump it a lot. I have an old Optimus mini pump with the original directions. They say not to pump too much, or the stove will continue to run when shut off, 'til it pressures down. :shock: Best of luck. Mine runs better and shuts off better after running a few times.

    Al
     
  4. KeithY

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    Thank you both for the comments.

    The used ones range from nearly new to old enough to that I had to replace a jet and a wick or two. However, I think they are set at 3 clicks, so I'll try changing that again.

    Algentry1, your comment about new ones shutting off better after use makes me feel better. That makes sense as the stem and seat would wear together. I'll try using the new ones a few times. Right now those two have only have a few lights each (2 on the first and perhaps 6 or so on the second). So they may yet resolve themselves. I do have a mini-pump but have not been using it, so that isn't a factor yet. Scout summer camp starts in a week, so I'll take the lot and play while the Scouts are in Merit Badge classes.

    On a positive note, I purchased a Juwel 34 about a year ago, which was totally out of commission. I finally got it working today. The burner plate was missing, the tank gasket was bad, the wick was scorched, and there were carbon (or other) particles throughout which kept blocking the jet. After resolving those issues, it ran just fine tonight for about twenty minutes or so.
     
  5. KeithY

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    As mentioned in my other post on Svea 123 wicks, I did get to play with my 123R stoves at Scout camp. I reset the needle to 4 clicks, as previously most were set at 5. I cleaned the valve spindle on one of the stoves, but left the others alone.

    In addition while they were open, I took time to clean (with Brasso) the needles and jets on all. I simply wiped out that portion of the vaporizer that's open when the needle is out, but did not gain access or clean that part where the spindle is. This was preventative to keep carbon from forming and blocking the jet-not to help with the shutoff.

    I then repeatedly ran the stoves in a Sigg Tourist cookset boiling water. This setup helps reflect the heat, and noticeably increased the stoves performance. Four of the six 123Rs are now shutting off properly. I appreciate the advice about re-checking the needle and about using the new ones a few more times.

    Regards,
    -Keith
     
  6. Iming Muslimin Indonesia

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    I encountered this issue on my MSR Dragonfly in sooo many times if use some dirty fuel. I noticed this was caused by carbon residue clogged in the jet. I simply pump it up excessively to 60 strokes in total. The pressure is strong enough to evict those clogs out. If that doesn't work, I simply pricks the jet multiple times with the stove upside down so the carbon clogged won't go back inside. It works all the time.
     
  7. Iming Muslimin Indonesia

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    Or, I disassemble everything, dip all the small parts in white gas, brush it all up, reassemble it again, fill up the tank with new white gas, pump the tank multiple times until the pressure is strong enough, invert the stove upside down, fully open the valve to drain the tank. It works all the time.
     
  8. Iming Muslimin Indonesia

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    Oh sorry my bad, my reply is for another thread about Svea 123 clogging. I misplaced the windows browser while reading multiple threads of Svea 123. Sorry.
     
  9. Yun124

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    Hello, of course you might already try, just remove the pricker from your 123Rs, and re-do to see how they work.
    From my short experiences only from my some stoves as similar as 123R, like 99, 123, 123R, 80, 71s, it's not a big deal to have seen very slight leaking(incl. very small cancle flame on the orifice) after screw-off the spindle. Sure I don't store the stoves just used due to the vapor gas matter.
     
  10. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Yes.
    Removing the pricker, and testing, will tell you if the problem is with the prickeror not.