Kero Coil Burner Davleco Need Help

Thanks Ian
Going to Cairns tomorrow. Will try and get a small firbe galss wick out of a Garden kero torch or something like that.
Got wick out. Made a bardie wire and a little bit of coaxing no worries. Though i'd be stuffed for yonks.

My main problem was I thought it may have had a resitriction up where the olives are say 13-20 thou.
Didn't know because a 13 thou wire could be made to got all the way through the tube but would bind up again after taking it out. Sort of nipple arangement. This lead me on a false trail.
But dickheads are dickheads.

It's 5.30 pm here now be going to cairns tomorrow dinner time.
So may get a reply before then and pick up something special for it if needed.
Any suggestons on wick fitment?
IT came out easy after I got it hooked up and the blocked bit came out.

Example:
Too loose will cause not enough vaporisation no pressure at all.
Too tight will cause it to built up pressure and explode sort of thing.
8r tension or just keep it loose?
here's the pick.
Thanks fellas your a bloody good bunch of fellas.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/barrabruce/wickout.jpg
I just don'e know if anyone have had the priverledge to play with one of these type before all Iv'e seen are the fixed soldered type Stesco traykit etc. (from photos that is)
looking up wind guard will need it when done. Then on the the rest of the kit for it.
May be a new ocupation for a while.

 

Bruce,

I haven't a clue on how to solve your problem, but have enjoyed reading the thread so far. Keep up the good work
I am intrigued with the idea that this is a kero burning coil stove .. and then Oops (Robert) went and posted this {expired ebay link} on another thread.
Perhaps the idea is not so strange after all.

All the best with the fettle

Spudz

 

Make your new wick a fair bit longer than your tube then form a long taper in one end by pulling strands out of it and cutting them off at different lengths. Tape or tie the tapered end of the wick to a wire leader then use the leader to pull the wick gently through the tube. It will be much easier to insert the wick before you re-bend the tube, but if you use a springy wire (guitar string?) for the leader you may be able to thread the wick into the coil. Leave longish ends on the wick so that it soaks up the maximum amount of fuel it is able to and also to ease its next removal.

 

Tell me the mower doesn't run two-stroke pre-mix........

 

Tell me the mower doesn't run two-stroke pre-mix........

No but the high grade octane straight out of the tank was looking very shitty in the cup I put it into. Pretty old too.
Got it for the outboard kept it for too long so use it in mower.Use fresh stuff for fishing only unless I run out cuase it breaks up after a month and gums up the carbies and looses a lot of its oomth. Bloodly lead free additive shit fuel. No fun cleaning out an motor when fishing.
Never had to do mine yet. Only everyone elses use a water seperator/filter big enough for a cruzer. People used to laugh at me but they were the ones with engine troubles. One pro went and got one after he seen mine and was sick of stuffing around with his outboard with water and shitty fuel. Can't be too bad then.

Sorry,where were we.

No only 4 stroke unleaded with a bit af booster/additive for the valves.

 

UPDATE:
Made wick. Installed out of mop as Ian and oops suggested.
1st one too small. Kero flames 1 foot high and hunting.
Didn't try Coleman fuel.
2nd made twice as thick.
Photo burning with kero.



Can't get it too burn clean.
May need tighter wick to decrease flow more.
One of those coil burner windscreens and burner plate maybe like the one oops posted Seivert.

Next Coleman fuel yes real stuff.
Glad I don't live in California cause its got something in it that makes Californians catch cancer apparently.
No windscreen



With a rough windscreen

sits up a bit more tighter flame.

Boil test. Started with match let heat up a bit 1-2 min
Placed pot on .1 litre '91 pot
Boiled 5min 15 sec.And a hard boil it is too.

Not to shoddy I think for a poxy old coil burner.
Considering I stuffed around with it.

Think it'll be too hot for frypan.

Think about detuning it a bit for cooking heat.

Add a windscreen to heat her up and boost her up for boiling.
Going to leave for a while since I got it going.

Don't like any slight breeze that's for sure.

So all now that I've come a full circle what do you think?

Least it burns nice constant and doesn't hunt /surge anymore and nice pressure in tank when venting after blowing out.

Thanks all who have helped me here. Otherwise it would only be a dust collector on a shelf.
Well I know you lot could've done a better prettier job of it that's for sure.
Next Container/ windscreen playing.
Any suggestions for variable flame control??

\ \ \

 

It should burn with paraffin like it does with Coleman. At a guess I'd say the jet hole is too big for a clean burn on paraffin now. It's only soft copper tube so wouldn't have taken much pricking to enlarge the hole. If you want to run paraffin you'll probably have to make a new coil.

 

wow that looks great now leave it like it is if you need less heat just put a metal plate on first then pot or have the plate with 3 short up right legs then pot
p.s. nice job

 

Bruce

Well done!

A very entertaining thread. An excellent example of perseverence.
I think I would have given up.

Great looking stove and nice healthy blue flame (if uncontrolable).

 

Making a windscreen for her.

WHAT IS THE BEST TEST
I was thnking of filling er up about 3/4 full
Putting the biggest pot I got which is wide and deep ( crap cooking pot)
Setting her up somewhere out the back and letting her rip.
Have hose ready at a safe distance and if the pressure builds up too much and blows it self out.
Hit it with the hose and open realease valve.

Should I first make a lead washer out of solder. Should melt lower than lead?
Or just leave the rubber one on it.

I want to be sure it will be safe enough to use.

This little blow torch I mean coil burner thing.
Will wait for a reply or two before I go to it.

Anyone think of a better way???
Thanks heaps fellas.
Bruce

Knowedge is the only thing I can give away which enriches both parties and I can also keep.


Well I try to anyway.

 

I'm hoping you mean "crab cooking pot", though I admit I know little about Australian cuisine.
....Arch

 

Remind me to stay upwind

 

I did mean crab cooking pot.
Well I did put the billy on it. Certainly boils water! 2.5 ltres 8 min roughly
Then a big cast frypan. Yep she gets hot alright. And everything for about two feet near it.

Didn't blow up! Sound over pressurized nor took off in bleavey type whistle.

Made a windscreen. Couldn't blow it out which could be a little fiddley if it took off like.

Readjust screen a couple of times. Much better.

Ended up puting a piece of coper wire about 8 thou in nipple to slow up volume of gas.
Bit better in the practical sense quieter no more ear muffs. Slower to boil and maybe able to use a frypan with a simmer plate of some sort.

Thinking of a needle control mechanism for the nipple for volume and heat control.

No matter what I do I can't get it to burn kero properly. Might be the coils or something. Always a yellow tipped flame. Even when reheating with a propane torch while lit doesn't get it to burn any better even for a moment. Burner plate pump I think I'll leave it lying still for a while and re-think about it one day.

Tamed burner


Boils slow as a metho stove now


Hope this thread has entertained some-one.
Gave me something to do for a while.
Think I might take the constrictor out of the jet and let her rip as a water boiler for when someone asks " Whats that thing! " I'll just say its just a 50 yr old stove thing I found somewhere want to see it work?

 

Hi, A Google search indicates that the Daveleco brand name was used by Coates & Co, now Coates Hire, one of the biggest Equipment Hire Cos. in Australia.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi!
Been Surfing the Youtube Channels and Found an Answer to your dilema at:



which is a video to "Restore OLD World War 2 Kerosene stove.mp4".

You can easily download this video by usin this URL:https://www.youtubepi.com/watch?v=A4nF0KXEZZ8 as a matter of fact just ad pi between the youtube and the .com and press enter.

Like V much guys like you who experiement with antique tchnology. The Old WW2 stove uses ordinary kero not alco. But to fire it uo.. well watch the Youtube..

Happy Restoration and of your confidence and Cheers.

 

Also remember the Thick wick is absolutely essntial to keep the back pressure of the gassified kero away from the fuel tank. Capillaric surface tension of the wet fibers keep the gas inside coil and causes the required gradient of sockage (wetting) of the wick. Notice the ends of the Copper coil tube extends deep almost right down to the bottom of the fuel tank. Those heated ends pump some heat to the cold kero fuel to keep it just below flash point of kero. The airtight cap of the fuel tank keeps the vapour pressure (saturated kero vapour) in eqilibrium with the warmed fuel. The wick is matched in density of the fiber to virtually pack the tube oriffice tightly. The fuel moves into the burner coil under slight pressure that builds up in the tank and mostly by capillaric wetting and suction of the upper areas of the dry wick at the top of the coil. The jet nipple also is properly matched to the packing density of the wick. Sri Lanka had street lamps of Old (120 years ago) that used this principle and I restored an antique brass lamp that ran on Kero with no pump and used a Petromax/Aladin Mantle. But that was 40 years ago when Internet was in its infancy.

 

Thought is was interesting this Little Scout coil burner says kero.......