This was my dad's and had it since I can remember.im now 55.its always been good till now.the wick is OK,burner OK,but the filler cap/safety valve seems suspect.ive ordered the large outer seal but the pip the spring sits on was solid so I managed to push it out and inside looks like remains of a melted and disintegrated seal.what is the best way to clean and rebuild this,the brass parts are fine.
Replace the pip … it isn’t an exact science, if the new pip makes a seal (no reason why not) and the spring still flexes, it’s good to go. Make sure the residue of the old seal is thoroughly cleaned off of course.
If remains of the old rubber sticks in the corners - a large sewing needle use to be an effective scraper.
What is the best way to seal the burner stem to the tank on assy.i see that copper grease was mentioned but I'm thinking maybe a gasket paste that sets with heat.im also refurbing the tin case,it was just brown rust all over but then again it's been used a lot in the past.
Fitted my new seal and pip after completely cleaning away old residue.also resealed burner threads and even tried a new jet.still just get orange flame with black smoke.it not work.can anyone tell me why.thankyou.
Did you remove the wick from the riser tube and check it where it’s not visible they can become charred if the stove runs empty and this effects performance also clean the inside of the burner tube to remove carbon build up you should not need a sealant on the tube to tank joint the thread is tapered I believe. Good luck.
@Simon Barker[/USER] It should have a thin metal wire to pull it out by and push it back in the same way have a look in the fettling forum? See @presscall post on the link. Primus 71 wick replacementi
That is fab.ive been playing all night but it just not work,all I'm getting is a weak yellow flame.so 3 strands of mop and when pushed in do you leave the wire there.im assuming you can't get the wire out.
@Simon Barker The wick must be a snug fit, and not jammed tight. It must be made of pure cotton. When putting the wick in, push the wire and wick to the top, then withdraw it about 3mm; or construct the wire so there is a protrusion at the top that creates that small space. The wire remains with the wick. Cheers Tony
Thanks guys for help so far.i went to tesco but their mops are no use,so I'm collecting one tomorrow from screwfix which is a traditional one.i might use the copper core from flat twin and earth lighting cable to the wick up.i reckon 3 strands.should do it.
Burn a bit of the cotton first to check it’s not got some synthetic thread in it. I’ve been caught like that before. I now use cotton darning thread (multiple strands for volume), but pure cotton mop is also very good. Tony
Well.ive fitted new wick and checked filler cap with a balloon for sealing.its been cleaned and done all I can and still not work.
To check for any leaks, place emptied fount in freezer for 15 minutes with the cap loose, fill sink with hot water, remove fount from freezer, tighten fuel cap, dunk in the hot water, check for bubbles. May need to open valve to see if a leak there also. If fuel is left in the fount, you may not see a leak. Duane
Did the freezer test.no bubbles at all.when I released filler cap it had a good amount of pressure that came out.so it's sealing OK.im puzzled.
Decided to renew wick again,I used a bit of wire to loop the top and hold strands,then used a wooden stirrer like from McDonald's to push it in,then back down 3mm and removed stirrer.it now works.im well chuffed.many thanks for all your advise and help.
