Had this stove some time but it has a hole in one of the burner tubes. I'm still not sure if my skills are up to the repair but I'll be giving it a go shortly. Can't wait to see that burner full-on. ( like a Radius 'Special' on steroids.) However, despite the name suggesting it might be a paraffin burner, the lack of spirit-cup, pressure relief per se and double shut-off all suggest to me that it is a petrol burner.
Ian, nice stove indeed! How would you repair the hole in the burner tube? Solder or braze? Or is there anothe way?
I'm thinking I'll try and fashion a sleeve of sorts; I have some brass tube about the right size, then wire it in place with some flux paste/ silver solder filings between and give it some heat.
So how hot will a burner tube normally get? Silver solder, depending on the exact composition, melts around 250C to 350C. I can't imagine the tube getting that hot unless it is used for prolonged periods or a windscreen is reflecting a lot of heat.
Hello, 'silver solder' is a popular name for brazing material, usually a rod, that contains silver next to copper and some other substances. Melting temperatures vary, depending on the formula, typically in the 900°C. range. With these tubes being cooled by paraffin even in its gaseous state, silver solder should work to patch a hole in these tubes, as it has been done before. 'Petrole' by the way, is french for paraffin. Good luck, Mike
Hi Sparky, Brazing is normally referred to as using a filler with a melting temperature of over 450C. "Silbrazing" seems to be an interchangeable term these days, but to me brazing is more high temperature than silver soldering. Maybe I wasn't paying attention in metalwork class at school, but I have in mind a progression of Lead (Soft) Soldering, Silver (Hard) Soldering, Brazing, Welding, but I've never been clear on the exact difference between Silver Soldering and Brazing. Perhaps they are interchangeable? An efficient burner will often glow cherry red as seen in many avatars. This will indicate a temperature of around 900C. Dull cherry red is around 800C. If you allow for conducted heat down the tubes I personally ensure I use a filler with a melting point between 800C and 1000C to provide a safety margin. This is higher than the normal Easyflo silver solder used in model making and readily available on ebay, which from memory has a melting point of around 650C to 750C - my opinion only, but I think this is too low to guarantee my personal safety. Cheers, Graham.
That's exactly my perception, too - did we go to the same school, Graham? I remember brazing stuff there, on a brazing hearth, using a mixture of coal gas (yes, I'm that old!) and forced air. The filler rod, IIRC, was brass - if not, certainly brass coloured. I've no idea what temperatures were reached, but the refractory bricks in the hearth didn't half glow bright red during the process...
Possibly. Were you looking out the window at Sue Owen on the netball court during that lesson as well?
Hahah - my memories of the school 'metalwork' room are the same as Davids!! I just love this stove with its typical French green glaze.
