HAHAH! Dean your right...95% cleaning-sanitazing & a 15% SKILL! (INCLUDING MY 3 BRAIN cells. Anyhoo i really enjoyed learning bits & bobs on the stove. Going to be an epic re-build and test. so ill prob shorten the post. First of all i dint know the top screw on the pump mech But with a lot of head scratching i made good progress. file adjusting
Found a descent srew driver to fit. Cup fitted (was seaped in oil) Now to the filler cap. what a pain, it must of been proper glued in, but i managed.
Guys n girls without waffling, basically its still not holding pressure & youll see (when i manage to show the quick vid) the orange flame (as metioned by yous already) Ill get editted you'll laugh with my comments (no swearing of course )lol. What could go wrong! Bri
@Brian D. looks to be assembled wrong ,spirit cup goes above nut on vaporiser?flame spreader upside down? I don’t have a lipstick burner so not an expert
Right (Reet!), there is a tank that has bits soldered to it to make ga tight joints, then there are mechanically assembled joints which need to be gas tight. All of it together needs to be gas tight or you lose pressure. Problem is: which bit is letting you down? Problem 2 is that some of the soldered and some of the mechanical joints are pretty close together, so you mightn't spot which is the culprit! I would start with the mechanical joints - there is the NRV, held to the face of the valve with a spring like from a biro that is why we might change the pip or at least look at it; then there is the lead washer down the pump tube, sealing the flange between tube end and NRV - either of these could cause loss of pressure up the pump tube, maybe show as pushing paraffin into the tube or pushing the pump itself up the tube (pump creep). The outer end of the pump - the bung behind the handle is not designed to be gas tight. The filler - Filler cap seal changed so should be OK here, but was all the old one removed cleanly so there are no hard lumps to stop it from sealing? Pressure release screw in the cap - sometimes wear a spot in the taper seal so don't always seal well - rare in my experience, but can happen. The solder joint round the filler spout can fail but is v. close to the leaky cap position. The other joint is the lead washer at the base of the burner riser tube. Did you change that one? Again, it is right next to a soldered joint so can be hard to work out what is leaking. After that there is scope for other solder joints failing or stress cracks in the brass itself but start with the easiest (and most likely) issues. How? Close off the tank and build pressure by pumping, then immerse the tank in a bucket of water (maybe with a dribble of detergent), watch to see precisely where the bubbles emerge from.
Full marks to Firestarter - spirit cup sits on top of the riser union - just drops down over the lipstick and sits there. In your still picture, the flame spreader looks right. Not watched the video, thought we might have that as a feature film when the popcorn gets delivered.
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh spirit cup on wrong place doooooooooooo!!! haha!! alas Dean not even a minute plus, blink and youll miss it. Ill re-try in the morn as i just spent 3 days on n off putting new xmas tree n 45,666 ft of poxy lights to find out need more borbals. Wor lass is away til thurs with the car, crap if im using buses n stuff lol. Bri
But that is good. It means you likely have a working stove with no leaks (when you assemble it correctly). It explains why gas was escaping from under it and why the pressure was dropping like a stone. The video with flaming droplets is a sign of burning unvaporised fuel - not hot enough for the pressure built up. Slow and steady build up is required. IIRC the 17B has a large pump tube and cup, like you expect on a 2 pint stove so enthusiastic pumping will build pressure real quick (too quick) on that little fount
morning lads, took my time reading firestarter and your Dean, thanks so much i fell like a clown lol i try last nite couldn’t resist, but it was late n my meds kicked in. so i stopped lol. one thing the fuel cup as i put it wrong was a pain to take off (ended putting in the vice, but alas i’ve made the lipstick squashed. so i’ll take gauze out and find something to put inside the lipstick and reform it best i can, i can do quick vid for you the pump action (i think pump creep it missed the pump, then pumped. for all lit with assembled Properly lol. lost pressure not even 2 seconds.. so guys i’ll do the immersed water check. tbh after the goings on this is the longest i stuck at a stove, as the RM & Mevo went to a chap in london (wonder if yous on here lol) anyhoo i thank you for following Billy Smarts Circus and Dangerous brian the clown!! get back to you all bri
Dean n guys confusing reigns!!!! Dean you mentioned in #73 Bri, The wide washer is for the tank to riser/lipstick joint. I put the wide washing in. but no thread the secure the lipstick. whats going on, what am i doing wrong (AS USUAL)? To make matters worse i lost the original washer,it'' apear some day in the gits of the workshop. As you can see no threads to get a hold. Im totaly confuse.com. what did i say about dangrerous Brian feeling like a
Ok, go back to vid at #10 and stills at #27. Looks to me like the fount to lipstick joint had some fibre washer sitting in it (is that what got lost on the workshop floor?) If so, good! You don't need it and it is symptomatic of a bodge repair. What you should have there is a lead washer - this was likely below the fibre one and mashed into the union below the threads- you might not even see it as a separate washer but you need to clear it out, gently, maybe with a pick or small screwdriver to clear it all away. Then you can "fit" the new lead one - not just drop it in and hope it goes down, but once you get it down enough to see some threads you may be able to seat and form it with the lipstick which would push it down gently as you turn the threads. Remember, the seal is made between the tank union floor and the bottom of the lipstick and needs to hold pressure even with changes in temperature I have made some of my own lead washers and have found the overall sizes of inner hole and outer might need a bit of adjustment with a file (rat tale in the hole, flat on the outside). I have found Ross's washers more like the right size, as opposed to my hand made efforts, so my reckoning is that you didn't remove the old lead!
No the washe that dropped was the wide lead washer, that washer in mention was knackered anyways. Still confused, the wide washer too to big. without the washer with could that thing cetre is a bodge? I know your doing an emazing job to descibe things, and i really apreciate it. Should carry on tomorrow as my meds kicked in,making whats left of my brain go Pete Tong. Yous are legend mind, patients of a saint lol. Bri
@Brian D I wouldn’t recommend using glue to secure a stove pot rest/leg. It could easily fail and tip boiling pot contents without warning. Looking through this thread Dean proposed the use of an epoxy but “it hasn’t failed so far” isn’t much of an endorsement. Besides, the glue contact area on Dean’s stove was greater (collapsible stove bracket) and the leverage not so great (shorter height). Solder makes a proper bond that’s literally stood the test of time with leg-to-tank joints still sound on the oldest of stoves. I use JB Weld and Araldite for appropriate jobs but the issues of conducted heat, mechanical strain and loading from a pot would make that proposed use a definite no-no for me. John
In the 'without the washer' photo that follows that comment I am sure there is a well squished lead washer still in the bottom of the groove. Something really sharp like a dentist's probe or a spikey bradawl should confirm this The same implements can then be used to dig it out. After that there should be plenty of room to push the 'too big' lead washer down into. Sometimes a little circumference shave with a file might assist, but don't resort to that too readily Ian
@Brian D. looking at your monitor tank you still have a lead washer, or remains of one in there. I have an old tank and I have just removed the remains of the washer from the centre. It should look flat and brass not with a raised bit in the centre like you have. Dig it all out ( I used nail scissors blade) and your new one should fit. Crossed with igh 371
hi fellaz. plenty of reading for me. thanks so much. first off, John as mentioned if wor lass wasn’t here to help i’d use a bread of superglue (not glue all the way. just at the point fulcrum )with only one hand that bead would dry fast unlike the epoxy. hope you understand lol. so guys think i gather that in the middle is left of a old washer and i get rid of it? mind more news. done a submerged test. first was bubbled out of the pump plunger. then saw bubbles coming out of fillet cap. now it had a new washer and tighter than wor lasses purse. going to take that apart and investigate more the morn. thanks so much brian
