I bought an old 99. I want to replace the wick, but the darn rhing is seized up, ROCK HARD. a day of correctly-sized wrenches, a day of penetrating oil, vice grips and now a somewhat stripped nut later, it still won't move. Ever run into this? I even dumped the fuel and heated the tank slightly to expand it. Nothing moving. Any ideas?
Yes, this happens a lot. The hurry to remove it is the demise of the old stove. Years of bonding requires patience.
There are a couple techniques, involving a ice block or a shaped wood clamp to contain the burner. Duane
take a hunk of wood and drill hole same diameter as pipe, cut block thru hole, clamp on pipe. There are some great pictures of this on the site many places. And heat is key IMHO. Penetrating oil is nice, and I use it on things like this, but it is not magic, nor can it get into a thread that is already fluid-tight. Get it hot. When using poor quality flare nut wrenches, clamp a pair of Vise Grips over the top of them to keep them from spreading. My Snap-On wrenches are soo much better than the others I have tried.
Thanks much. I presume I am heating and cooling only the tank area i am trying to expand, versus heating the pipe?
@Mcbhaine this is good (recurring) discussion, I'm in. If I'm not commenting I will follow with interest. with all due respect, this is same 99 "I can see a 4-headed flame dragon pouring out of this beast. as great." re your: "I want to replace the wick" If it aint broke don't fix it comes to mind. thankfully yours is not broke, you might review this applicable recent thread: Tank removal and a sickening moment - Optimus 99 ------------------------ Still a good topic. i currently do not have tried n true solution i'd swear by. so my further comments can not get us to end success. An aside, applicable here is the unforgiving nature of seized fasteners with softer metals involved. Two examples are brass & aluminum (at times polished). a new (for me) suggestion above is vice grip over flare nut wrench. about that, "... correctly-sized wrenches ..." sadly this one already has a somewhat stripped nut (been there). Nonetheless, I grabbed an 8R (same burner, also very much seized) to play with for sake of this discussion. I "thought" size was 10mm. My nut is larger than 10mm and smaller than 11mm or 7/16 (the flare nut wrenches i have). btw my 10mm wrench will not slip past the fuel line. I'm afraid my example is not past step 1. I'll not attempt it with adjustable or wrong-sized flare nut wrench. I have a herd of 8Rs, as more hobby time allows i can dig others out and see if 10mm fits any of those (i thought it was a 10?). I don't think i have another that i want to disassemble for sake of discussion. ============ If i achieve satisfactory grip on hex fitting, +1 on heat and cold (i have used ice). The next question is, to turn the tank? or the wrench? Then how to go about securing the work.
I was going to mention this, it begs the question. If it is running well as advertised, then leave the wick alone. I like to be OCD on some things as much as anyone - but this is probably not one of them. The potential for damage is there.
This is a cool contraption, but seems to only secure the one part of the stem attaching to the tank. How is the remainder turned? I should have mentioned this before, but the part of the stem past the first "elbow" is at the wrong angle, as if someone tried to remove tank, had some trouble, then gave up. Won't sit in the case, and when burner attached, points off 25 degrees out of plumb.
I wonder if a PO worked on it and tried to get one more revolution and got it stuck. Time for hard choices. Duane
It shouldnt be that hard to remove...could be that the previous owner had it apart and tried putting it back together and somehow cross-threaded it. If you have access to a vice you can try locking it down with wood as described before and try it.