Hi all. Im new to the Forum and just bought a (ibelive) Optimus 111T (silent bruner) As the condition of the store is unknown im doing a full refurbish. Im trying to figure out how to get NRV out of pump houseing an ordered a NRV removal TOIL. How ever when looking in to the pump houseing it do not seem to have the square top i’ve seen photos of from other doing this i’tried to take a photo but its not very good Questions are if ther any other types of NRV used on the Optimus stoves ore the top is simply destoroyed during an earlier atempt to remove it ? If top is destroyed any ideas on how to remove the NRV I’ve tried to blow both in to tank and into pump houseing an no Air comes thru either way, so there is something in there foresure ;-) Thanks in advance Peter
@Peter9310 It is always good to have a thorough look at a new stove (great part of this hobby too ;-)). To me the valve look damaged - I’d recommend to de-solder the pumpshaft - fix the damaged NRV and re-solder it back in place. (I’ve send you a PM)
I hope you got the stove at a bargain price. The damaged NRV is not a dealbreaker though. This is easily fixed if you have some basic skills. I am sure Harder sent you good information.
It's difficult to make things out from the photo (NRV's are always a challenge to photograph!) If the valve head is damaged as you suspect, you could try using a stud extractor as a last resort before unsoldering the pump tube, information here.
Easier said than done with an Optimus 111-series tank because the pump tube is hard-soldered (silbrazed) in place after insertion into the flared tank opening by hydraulic press as an interference fit. I discovered the impossibility of removing one neatly with THIS ‘Frankies’ project. John
@presscall Hmmm - I might have mistaken soldering an 8R tank with this 111 tank in my memory. Wondering if all 111-tanks are soldered/brazed the way you describe it?
Probably, Harder, I can’t see Optimus varying their production method for a specific 111/22 model. The extremely tight fit of the pump tube in the tank on top of the heat from a MAPP torch being conducted away from where it’s wanted by the mass of brass in the tank prompted me to refer to the ‘impossibility’ of the removal. At least, it proved so for me.
Since you are my solder/braze/welding Guru, I don’t foresee me doing a better job ;-) A removal here to help Peter should then be considered the mechanical way - or by a donor tank.
Yes, getting the NRV out by screw extractor would be my approach. I’d widen the air inlet hole in the NRV using a steel rod with a flat hammered on the business end, ground to an arrow point to match the angle of the screw extractor - more a reaming than a drilling operation. Doing that should give the extractor more chance to ‘bite’. Setting the power drill on reverse, the ‘spade’ bit will cut just as well as clockwise and might contribute to loosening the NRV.
Well, well, well. New information from the masters. 111 is different. As I recall I have not had trouble with any 111 NRVs. Extraction by extractor. I would soak for days in a solution of atf and acetone as a penetrating oil to help.
Good point from Kerophile, but I was working on a 22B and 111 (kero) tanks with no discernable melting of the join metal of either in the torch flame. Then there’s the interference fit of pump tube in whatever tank to contend with. That said, subject stove is a 111T so its multi-fuel capability presumably prompted Optimus to braze the tank components together.
The skill level of removal by soft solder method vs silbraze is similar. But the technique would appear to be more difficult. Like a competitive dive. Diving, but a higher difficulty multiplier. Doable. So do not throw out the stove.
So have ordered parts, and are lokking forward to start fetteling First thing i got hold of were O-ring for the pump. I sounded like the NRV was working so coludn't resist. Filled som kerosen on the tank, preheated with alcohol and pronto it runs. Impressed by the sound level
