Silbrazing equipment in Norway

I have two burners with small leaks that needs silbracing. And I need to start with this noble art. Could anyone point me in the right direction what to buy to start silbracing? Preferrably norwegian web stores.

 

Hej Espen,

I did my first bit of silver brazing over the summer fixing up an old case - Optimus 8R fettle

I got lots of help from folks here and the thread mentions some of the less obvious things I had to acquire like (c-clamps).


-R

 

I'm not sure what the terminology is in Norway, but unless the Silbraze company has cornered the market, that won't be the term used! In the UK 'silver soldering' and 'brazing' are the terms used for process, materials and equipment. Central heating and air conditioning mechanics use brazing equipment, which may help you find the right equipment. The popular torch over here is the Rothenberger Superfire MAPP gas torch.

For general purpose work, 55% silver rods would suit fine, and for the burner repairs, 30% would be better. You'll need flux to suit too.

Some high temperature insulation material can be useful too, to place the workpiece on and to contain heat around the work. Insulating firebrick and vermiculite board are good for this.

 

If you want quality products in brazing materials and burners in Norway - there are TESS shops in lots of locations that use to have what you need on the shelf, usually at affordable prices.
JULA use to have some products of cheaper brands that still do the job.
Both of them use to sell by internet too.

 

@Blackdog , here in the US, the lines are a bit more defined. Silver soldering uses a silver alloy to join metals, same or dissimilar. Brazing is is done with VERY little and usually NO silver involved.

We don't get true MAPP gas here in the US, a paltry seconds sold as "MAPP" gas, actually propylene gas, nice try but no goal to be had here.

I use acetylene and air, using a Swirlfire torch, works at a price of high pitched whistling from the torch, ear protection is a must using the flippin' thing!

Murph

 

Aha, thanks for clearing up. Lennart F: I have a Tess shop within reach, I will stop by later today.

 

The term 'brazing' here covers everything done with a filler rod containing brass, with 'silver soldering' beig a subcatagory. You'd seek equipment by looking up 'brazing', and materials under 'silver soldering' or 'brazing'.

Brazing (using brass filler rod) was king through the industrial revolution, until the silver-bearing filler rods transformed things in the 1920s, with the lower melting point making joining non-ferrous metals easy.

A large paraffin blowlamp would have been the tool in the past, then propane torches with a variety of burners. Now MAPP is popular for fiddly jobs where localised heat is useful.

 

My local Tess in Florø has MAPP gas bottles. I have ordered rothenberger superfire mapp and flux, but is this the right silverrods? Looks to be 30% silver and melting point 640 C.

 

3mm diameter may be a bit large for the jobs you want to do, can you find thinner rods such as 1.5mm?

 

Trick to using larger rods is cut off a small bit and put it where you want the braze. Keeps one from melting too much rod into the joint - what's there is all there is.

Murph

 

Will a 40% silver rod do for burner repair or do I need to get the 30%. A friend has some 2mm 40% rods I can get for free..

 

That's what I do, too.

 

@Espen Lothe, 40% silver will be fine, might be a higher melting point, though.

 

I've found whilst trying to get my Primus No5 going (can't find the ID number yet) that The filler neck has a leak where it joins the tank. So I'll need to silver solder it. I have Borax so I think this will do the flux job. I have different grades of Silver Solder, but I'm not sure which grades will be best (My brother is a Silversmith and has left plenty of badly identified rods with me! (but I know brass is pretty forgiving. -and I'll do tests first)

 

Filler necks use to be tin soldered as they never reach high temp or pressure unless there is already a catastrophic failure engulfing the tank with flames - and in that case you would really want the filler lid to pop off.

 

Good tip Lennart thanks.

 

I'll add to that- it will be virtually impossible to silver solder a filler neck without melting the solder in the tank bottom seam too.

The working temperature, and operating temperature, may well be very close to 30%, probably ok for burner work, it would be helpful to know the specifications.

 

Simply fill the tank with water. Or wrap in a wet rag.

 

....you'll still probably melt the riser joint

 

Hope my MAPP burner turns up in the mailbox soon. It is my 10 kW Optimus 3 that has the leak and the crab season is right now