CEJN fitting strip-down

Incredibly helpful.

Once, during assembly, a released spring flung a part... cuss words flew... then the part was found. Whew!! Saved.

 

This is a MARVELOUS thread.

I understand all, I believe, and have ordered the small O-rings from McMaster-Carr.

For the less mechanically inclined, how to remove the first spring clip ?

There appears to be no space in which to get even a jeweler's screwdriver under the steel band to pry it off.

Advise, please.

@presscall

 

Use a pointed tool. In this video, notice how I use the forefinger of the hand not holding the tool to stop the clip from sliding round.
John

 

John,

THANK YOU !

You are AMAZING ! A bright spot in the universe to be sure.

And kindred spirits ? I too have a grandfather clock with a reassuring passage of time (as long as we remember to wind it).

Paul

 

@joesmoe3 Thanks for your comments Paul, very kind.

Ah, you heard the clock! Nothing too ‘grand’ but a clockwork pendulum clock admittedly.



John

 

Thanks to @presscall I secured the connector in a vise, and having two hands to work, was able to block one side of the clip, and with the other hand slip -- as you said "oh so carefully" -- a jeweler's screwdriver under one end of the clip, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the clip.

Proceeding with the disassembly, darn if I didn't do exactly what a previous poster did, and in trying to coax the inner parts out, had the forward cap and one O-ring shoot out of the front. Fortunately, it was pointed at the time where I could recover the parts.

Now that I have it disassembled, my challenge now is I do not see what was wrong with it.

Why was it catching, when pulling back the out sheaf ?

Why was it not sealing and allowing fuel to leak - a little when connected, a gusher when not connected ?

I have found that Katadyn (and I learned the proper pronunciation today: Cat-ah-dine) offers a package with a replacement pump and matching fuel line that has the current quick disconnect and shut off valve for $77.50 US shipped.

I'm expecting the O-rings to show up Friday (tomorrow as I type) and I will reassemble the connector and see if that restores the connector to safe function.

Absolutely positively could not have done this without the incredible skills and interest and sharing of @presscall .

 

GENIUS I say !

Reassembled the connector, and working as it never had a problem.

THANK YOU !!!

Next up: the Non-Return-Valve in the pump.

 

@joesmoe3 Great result, very pleasing to hear. Thanks for reporting how it went.

 

Thank you so much for this information. I just finished replacing the two washers on the connector of my Optimus Nova that I bought in the year 2000. It was just tested under pressure, with a nice aggressive flame, and it didn't leak a drop. Not even when I removed and re-fitted the hose while the bottle was under pressure. I'm so happy!

I've been using the stove a couple of weeks every year and last year the bottle started leaking. At first I thought I needed to replace the coupling, because it looked unfixable.That was a year ago and I didn't succeed, because the couplings aren't sold separately, or so it seems. Today is a rainy day and I decided to try and get this todo item off my list. A little google-foo later and I found this thread.

Again, thank you so much! It speaks to the quality of these devices that we're necro-posting on a 9 year old thread ;-)

 

@Johnny Halfmoon I’m glad you were successful with the repair and I appreciate your reporting the outcome.

 

@presscall excellent post John. Great pics as usual! Wow! And thanks to everyone else who add such depth. I know I am coming to this late but I am learning so much and appreciating the cumulative talent so much!

 

Replaced the o-rings on my Optimus 11 Explorer but
when I was going to assemble the coupling I lost a steel detent ball
Does anyone know where I can get one?

 

I bought some. I think I posted it here.
Maybe not. I have a bag that I bought in the shop. Remind me if I forget.

 

Bought some ball bearing balls 2.5 mm from Kulager AS here in Norway.

 

Thanks for the great instructions!

For O-ring replacement in CEJN coupling, the correct size is (in SI units )

2.9 X 1.78 [mm]

For colder climates (as in Finland... ) NBR 70 might be better choice than NBR 90, which both are nitrile rubber but NBR 70 is softer and hence better suited for cold conditions.

 

@F7391
Thanks for the valuable information on size/material!

 

WOW! This was a fantastic thread. Very technical and every single comment was in-depth and salient. And the tone was utter cooperation and sharing and learning and respect. One of the nicest most productive threads I've ever read anywhere. I found it heart-warming! My sincerest appreciation to all you gentlemen! You are all absolute gentlemen!

 

Hello to everybody here.
I discover this very detailed forum.
I am using a Primus Omnifuel and I am tired to buy a repair kit to simply use the spindle oring.
I took the time to read your comments but I couldn't find the measurements of that little blue oring in order to buy it separately.
Is it that one?
2.9 mms ID/ 6.46 OD/ 1.78 CS

Thank you in advance

 

Hello,
Do these numbers correspond to the little blue o-ring of the Primus Omnifuel spindle mentioned above along with the picture?
Thank you

 

@Julien Member ‘F7391’ gave those dimensions but I’m unable to confirm them right now. Supplier Base Camp sells spares for the Omnifuel, including the spindle O-rings, Part No.731095. The Base Camp spares list for the stove is HERE.