Cleaned, all new gaskets. Passed dunk test. The pricker was adjusted too high when I got it, adjusted that down. I did not remove or replace the wick. The flame spreader was off & bent when I got it, it may be too high or low? It's roughly even with the top of the burner bell now. It just doesn't roar like I think it should. The case is still a work in process so I haven't tried it with a pot on it.
I would let it run for at least 10-15 min. If it doesn’t get better - I would change the wick. Be careful not to damage the nut against the fount. I would use some good thin penetrating oil first and let it soak for a day or two. Some times they’ll give in easy and some times they can be a pain in the rear end. Patience and carefull are your best buddies here. The wick is easily made - it must be 100% pure cotton - not 99%. This is important. I just untangle a round wick from a simple Kero lamp - make it fit, so it resembles the old wick- so there is a bit resistance - not to loose and not too tight. Hopefully this will make it run as it should.
Flame looks fine to me for cooking. Bigger is better for boiling water. Had three out yesterday and each one had somewhat similar looking flame but different looking at the same time. Same goes for the sound. Each one pulsed or sputtered a little different. Have found that with other roarer burners having their own individual quirks. Like Duane said.
Thanks for the input. I ran it for a while longer yesterday, beside a different 8R, and they appeared the same so I will leave it be for now, at least until I finish cleaning & paintaing the case. I guess these don't roar like my Svea 123 (which don't roar like my Phoebus 725, etc.).
I always thought the 123 blasts out the heat slightly better than the 8R and the published BTU ratings seem to bear this out, I guess. Some people claim that the horizontally laid out design of the 8R is a bit prone to the SRV letting go due to overheating. The only time I saw this happen myself, the fellow was getting a little too enthusiastic in the wintertime with the optional accessory pump & cap and coaxing more output.
@BagheeraNZ The burner head (bell) needs to be firmly tightened (be careful not to overtighten). The height of the flame plate will influence the fuel/air mixture. Minor adjustments to its “arms” can tune the flame — as long as the jet is not worn. Tony
Have you dunk tested the tank? Nothing saps a bit of energy away like a small pressure leak. I know you said new gaskets, but ya gotta make sure it seals.
Well, when I purchased my 725 (used) it did not have a burner plate, so I ordered a silent burner cap from the "Dawg", and it is very,very quiet! Just sayin', Tom
