I have got one of the Fettlebox’s service kits for the above. I’m guessing I might have added a few bits I might already have had to it. I’m at a bit of a loss as to where some bits will need to go! The wick is easily identified and I think the large rubber washer is the filler cap/pump valve seal. The various fibre washers and pips I’m at a loss with. Assuming inside the pump valve? Here’s what I have got: Ignore the rear derailleur! It is kind of involved though. It is a more period correct part for the old mountain bike I’m hoping to tour on later this year. I’ll fit it later once I have sorted the rear hub. Back to the stove which I may well take with me. It’ll either be this one or a Monitor 17B. The stove worked well when I last used it a long time ago. The pump and valve seem to work fine although I will of course replace the seal. What other parts are Must fit? TIA.
3 looks like a seal for the filler cap. 2 is graphite packing for the spindle. 1 _might_ be a washer to go between the spirit bowl and vaporiser. The final part looks like a pip for an NRV; perhaps it goes in your pump-related filler cap. I don’t have one so I’m only guessing. -R
Thanks @IRM I replaced the seal and wick. I ended up untwisting the original wore and reusing that as it was a better length (longer) than the one in the kit. Heck it out: And. That is clean from a bottle Coleman fuel. It is very old though. I have a new problem. I cannot turn the key and the stove shuts off. The flame keeps going. It does diminish enough for a sharp blow to put it out. I also noticed that when I turn the key, the cleaning needle does not appear out of the jet. Do I need to source a new needle and rack?
When re-assembling the cleaning needle it has to be synchronised with the closure of the throttle valve: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/fitting-replacement-parts-on-regulated-burners.8843/
The pump is normally only used for colder environments. And if used, just a pump or two to get fuel to flow for priming. A hot tank should be enough to use the stove.
Synchronized needle is thought to be critical, but to be honest, the real issue is that the bottom of the needle does not hit the bottom of the space, preventing it from shutting off completely. The easiest solution is to remove the needle and shut off valve, inspect the tip of the valve for corrosion and then reinstall it. Then close the valve fully to see what position the key is in when closed fully. Now install the needle as discussed in the forum, normally 4-5 clicks, but make sure that when shut off, the key is in the fully shut off position. Most candling is from a corroded tip on the stem.
Thanks everyone. More is better the 16year old me would have thought. Let’s not be too harsh on the much younger person I was then. Age 14 through to 20 odd saw me through Scouts and it was our leader that got me into brass stoves. Thanks Adrian should you ever join the forum. I’ll have another tinker tomorrow. I am just fitting that rear derailleur in the photo above. I was hoping to get it done by the time the wife returned as I’m doing this in the kitchen. I just got busted! I’m not in too much trouble as I had to rescue her as she had left the lights on in the car resulting of course in a very flat battery. Plus I do the cooking.
I like to remove the cleaning needles. That way I can go from off to max without fussing with the protruding needle. I do carry a Svea cleaning needle just in case; don’t think I ever needed it.
I understand, I do remove the needle if I have candleing that does not seem caused by corrosion on the stem or spindle tip as a testing step.
