I am sure someone mentioned removing the locking tabs from their modern trangia 27/25 base but I can't find the post so.... ..... what is the best way to do it?
@snwcmpr , there is a reason to do it, but I haven't done it myself. The clipped base and the old unclipped windshield are incompatible. This is an issue if you deliberately mix-and-match because you deliberately modify one base and don't want to do that to everything. I have left my 1980s T25 unmodified, but I think filing notches in the windshield to make the old one clip-compatible would be easier that drilling/filing the clips on the new base.
Maybe I misread some of the earlier posts. If you want your modern Trangia to not be locked, just don't spin it after putting the windshield on. Which is what I understood @snwcmpr to be saying. If matching an old windshield to a new base, the slots could be larger or smaller than factory. I would look at a new one to get the general idea, but there's a fair bit of slack in it and IMHO a smaller slot would be fine functionally and more than adequate for strength. As I say, I haven't done that so can't confirm. For modifying a more modern one to completely prevent locking, removing the tabs is the only option. To do that, I would probably use an inexpensive wood chisel and then file the cut aluminium edge. I would just leave it unlocked myself, as @snwcmpr suggests and @HunterStovie implies. For me the only real benefit of unlocked is the ability to remove the windshield to place or remove the snuffer. The big plus of the windshield being locked is that you can move the whole setup around with the grippers. In my old job (camp instructor) this was an essential feature with kids being required to move the Trangia away from themselves after completing cooking.
but you have to align the tabs with slots which is a pain/ awkward plus the windshields might get inadvertently rotated in use and partially engage ... Thanks. Nb when I said '....(eg could file too much....)...', I meant in the vertical direction, thus, on assembled stove, leaving a gap for wind to enter the upper shield at burner level...
The Trangia system, as designed, has served countless campers, sailors, backpackers, and hikers, since it was created. It's PERFECT, just as it is! Why try to "fix" something that is not broken, and is already perfect?!? - Doc
I suggested that as an added comment to @HunterStovie asking why. I too wonder why you need to fix something that ain't broke. Not being locked would be unstable.
Good news is that we now understand "why" @TRA_A had the thought. @Doc Mark , the Trangia has locked windshield and base for 1/2 the life of the 25 model. It didn't for the first 1/2. Perhaps still awaiting perfection. Other options to the lock tab removal would be: Buy an early 1980s (or late 1970s) Trangia. They are nearly identical to the modern but without locking tabs. Lift the left corner of each windshield cut out to prevent it engaging with the slot. This means that the lock can only engage in one direction but cannot engage the other way. Park the windshield at the "no-go" edge and accidental engagement won't happen. File the cut out a little longer if you still worry.
If you replace an old tab-less base whilst keeping its old upper windshield you either need to cut slots in the original upper wind shield or modify the modern base: the latter looked easier to do? and presumably more favorable to those preserving classic stoves
