Hi guys I’ve just stripped my ( new to me ) Optimus 199 to give it a good clean. When I’ve fired it up the cleaning needle that I’ve set on the normal 4 clicks doesn’t shut off the stove when fully anticlockwise like on my other stoves with a cleaning needle. I don’t suppose it matters as long as the needle cleans the jet? I know fully clockwise is the off position! Is this normal? I’ve tried it on 3 clicks but the needle is too far into the jet then. I’m using white gas and the stove works fine apart from that.
I don't have a 199 but my two 111t's also don't shut off in the needle position and I consider it's normal. My Svea 123r does though but it's a different kind of burner and possibly a lower pressure in the tank with it. So I wouldn't be worried with that as it's more convenient cleaning the jet when you don' turn it off by accident.
Start from the principle that the fully anti-clockwise position is to clean the jet by pushing the needle upwards through the jet; and the fully clockwise position shuts off the fuel flow to the burner by the position of the pointed end of the spindle. The pricker is not meant to be a secure fuel flow device, though it may shut down the flame in use, especially if not used in a rapid “on-off” way. Cheers Tony
Thanks for the replies. I wasn’t really worried about it just seemed strange that’s all and wondered if the pricker needed replacing. Thanks again
It may ĥas been changed already with the wrong one or there is an accumulation that stop the valve to shut off totally.
When I stripped the stove I put those parts in an ultrasonic cleaner for an hour. They’re spotless. I’ve now stripped my 111T and I’m doing the same to that. I’m not sure what’s been used in these stoves before but they’re filthy and the tanks had, what was possibly paraffin at one point of its life. Both stoves were from the same source and hadn’t been used for a while.
My next question was going to be about the threads on the control valve. The threads on my 119 and 111T are different. The 119 has 3 threads and the 111T has 4. I thought that it was only the tanks that were different? JP2, you’re photo shows two different threads, is one a 119 and the other a 111?
I’m just having a bit of trouble with my 111T now, the threads on the control spindle on my 111T are different to my 119. 3 on the 119, 4 on the 111. I thought the only difference was the tank. The spindle goes too far in so the pricker teeth won’t locate with the ones on the spindle with 3 threads. Does that make sense? So I’m back to the original spindle with 4 threads. I’m going to try 5 clicks next, the pricker is too far up at 3 clicks but at 4 the stove won’t shut off. Plus it’s 1.30am here and my head hurts trying to work out what’s up. I’ll give it another shot in the morning. Regards Dave
Hope you can see those. The original 4 thread which is correct I think but at 4 clicks on the pricker the stove won’t turn off! 5 clicks was worse. Just let fuel through making a fireball.
Problem solving: 1. Take the pricker/rack out and run the stove without the pricker. If your stove operates properly, and shuts off properly, your spindle and burner are mating properly and that's one potential problem reolved. 2. Now put the rack in and start at 3 clicks. Cheers Tony
Ok, will try that this morning thanks. Never thought of trying it without the pricker. I’m convinced there’s something blocking the spindle closing fully but I’ll try taking the pricker out. Although I haven’t tried it all put together with 3 clicks the needle looked too high. I’ll give it a go. Thanks Tony.
Nope, no pricker and it’s still not turning off. This stove is new to me and it didn’t turn off when I first had it last week. Same source as the 199 which works fine. The vaporising tube is buggered I reckon from over tightening, or there’s something in there stopping it turning off that the ultrasonic cleaner hasn’t shifted. I’ll give the point a wipe with some fine wet and dry sandpaper but I doubt that’ll do anything. I’m wondering, could it be the wrong spindle? Strange!
There should be nothing blocking the spindle, so it’s important now you think that, that you take out the pricker. Give the chamber where the pricker rack sits a good clean with engine degreaser or similar. Then try the spindle. If it doesn’t shut off the fuel flow, you’ll need to take the spindle out. Cheers Tony
The spindle’s been out half a dozen times, the pricker’s out but it’s still not turning off. I’m trying a new jet at the minute (if I can stop dropping it!) just in case that’s somehow impeding the spindle. Just tried again and it starts hissing within a second or two of pre heating. That’s fully closed, or should be.
Stripped it all down again. Tried another spindle this time and when I blew through the fuel feed it turned it off!!!! Just a random spindle out of my parts bin! No idea what the difference is with this spindle but I’ll strip it down again to try the pricker. Hopefully that’s sorted it. I’ll get back with results.
I’m trying to fit a new kitchen and in the spare time I get to sit down I’m fettling! 2am this morning with this bloody stove, went to bed uneasy ‘cause I couldn’t work it out. It’s working perfectly now and I don’t know why!! I’ll have to strip it yet again to see why. Thanks again for the replies.
There are at least 3 different rack lengths on that sort of prickers and at least 2 different depths of burner valve bodies. The shortest type works in all burners but you may need to set it on 2 clicks in some burners - some early(before mid-50's) burners should have the shortest but the later(longer) will fit if shortened 1-2 cogs. 199 use the 8R burner that is not older than early-70's so you may have a needle with 1 cog more than original - some nearly identical burners had a washer between the jet and valve body and may use a longer needle. General rule is to close the valve without needle and check it's not leaking, note the position, open ½ turn and put the needle in position, determine how many cogs it needs to be lowered to fit in the jet, then open the valve that number of cogs(usually 1-2) and close the valve(check again for leak and the needle not binding at bottom, moving free on cogs) - fit the jet and check that you can open the valve ½ turn or a bit more. If you have the right needle, 1 click more cause the valve to not close fully while 1 click less than correct cause the needle to stop against the jet before ½ turn open - if the needle rack is too long, you just file off enough from the bottom end of it.
Crikey, that’s a reply, Thankyou. Luckily I had a couple of spare spindles and one of them worked fine. Someone had obviously had a go at fettling it and fitted the wrong one somehow, it wouldn’t turn off but now does. Thankyou
