I have made these before, but could not get them to look exactly like the original until I noticed this... Some originals have smooth sides but some have a ridge around the centre of the rim, indicating (IMHO) that it is a moulding made in two stages So I set off to make a two stage casting, using a tough two-part resin mix used for table finishing. First I made two separate silicon moulds from an original handle; the outside and inside As with most DIY project involving pouring, casting and brazing, the setup is critical, so I used common tools to set up the jig correctly with the control rod vertical and central, and 1-2mms above the bottom of the mould. The two part clear resin was mixed with coloured mica powder. In this case I chose black in contrast to the dark red originals. First pour is about 5ccs. Equal parts of resin and hardener were measured accurately with plastic 3cc pipettes before mixing together with the black powder in a small disposable cup. The first pour was left to cure for 24hours in a warm room. Then the bottom of the inside silicon mold was smeared with petroleum jelly and centred around the shaft. Second pour is about 4ccs, poured separately into the outer and inner cavities. This was also left for 24 hours to cure. Then the excess cut off, and the flexible moulds removed. As cast and compared to the original Lettering filled in white using Tippex and polished with Autosol on a flat cloth. DIY one is in the centre Tips. Drill the holes in the steel shaft before casting (I forgot). Square both ends of the shaft. The squared handle-end anchors better into the resin. Have fun.
Someone has way too much time on his hands. Actually, very impressed with your casting skill. Outstanding product.
@Daryl Thanks. I’ve been retired a long time now and spend most of my time on my hobbies. It keeps me out of the pubs!
Fantastic work. I need to cast a new handle for a 111 bought at Newark, only problem is I don't have another to use as a template for mould making. No doubt another will show up soon! Thanks for documenting the process, it will save me time experimenting.
@Twoberth That's great. Two-component epoxy resin has a high viscosity and can lead to voids, and resins that have a low viscosity before curing, such as resin, are not heat resistant. These are the only resins I know, so I'm very interested in what resin you use. I have no intention of criticizing you, I'd simply like to know, so I'd appreciate it if you could tell me. Thank you.
@Camp numao I use Craft Resin fast cure, heat resistant resin. It is a 1:1 resin, and after mixing I use a heat gun/hair drier to warm the mixture and lower the viscosity, and then slowly tip and rotate the cup so the mixture rolls around the sides of the cup and any air bubbles escape. Then I leave to stand for 15 minutes and then pour slowly.
