Can you safely clamp a tube with wound wire.

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by pbekkerh, Jan 21, 2025.

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  1. pbekkerh

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    I have substituted a tube going from the gastap to the burner. I had to use another stump of tube to adapt it. I used 10mm hoseclamps but it looks awfully with those big clamps, so I wonder if I could just wind some thin steelwire twice around and then wind the ends together.

    I seems to me, there is low pressure in the tube, as it is ending in free air, although through the nozzle.
     
  2. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Can you post a photo? Sounds like you're using rubber tubing to attach a burner to a fuel valve on a butane stove?

    In any case, make sure you're very careful about which hose you're using, and yes use actual hose clamps even if they look terrible. Twisted wire will be asking for a dangerous fuel leak.
     
  3. Doc Mark

    Doc Mark SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I agree with @Marc. In dealing with fuels, even low pressure types, it's far better to be safe, than sorry! Don't use the wire method, and stick with clamps that will seal the joints very positively. I know that MSR uses a clamp that's not as "ugly" as hose clamps. And, I've seen a tool that puts a proper crimp on those clamps. Sadly, I can't recall WHERE I saw them. Good luck, and yes, please post some photos of what you are trying to do! Take care, and God Bless!

    - Doc
     
  4. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    You might look up Oetiker clamps. They're commonly used on PEX plumbing here in the states, and available in many sizes.
     
  5. pbekkerh

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    OK OK I'll do it :lol:

    I was trying to avoid the walk out to the car through the snow, to take the picture.:)

    I replaced a very bulky tube and regulator with this one.

    It also allows me to wind the tube around the bottom for packing, so I don't have to unscrew the burner.

    I have ordered some of that metaltube to see if it will go over the burner pipe. For now, I didn't want to cut the only one I had, to see if it works.

    Are those unsightly thick tubes part of some kind of new regulation?

    2025-01-21 19.20.52.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2025
  6. pbekkerh

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    Here the original bulky tube and regulator Italien NY  (5)a.jpg
     
  7. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Those are Oetiker clamps it had originally.

    Is that a piece of the original tubing you've used as a connector? If so, it's probably fine, spec'd in by the manufacturer to handle heat and fuel that close to the burner. If it's some other random hose, I wouldn't recommend running the stove at all.

    Cosmetics are not high on my priority list for equipment, but I think the bodge job you've done looks far worse than the original hose, as supplied by the factory. Would recommend reverting back to the original setup, albeit with a hose a few cm shorter now.
     
  8. pbekkerh

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    Does anybody know of any clamps with a smaller bolthead? Or a narrow band would maybe give a smaller bolt
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2025
  9. OMC

    OMC United States Subscriber

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    I'm not suggesting fix, just pointing out you show common worm/drive hose clamp.
    These are not recommended for fuel lines.
    There are at least 2 options of fuel line hose clamps, none are worm drive.
    Available at any auto parts store. Not sure if they have smaller bolthead.
     
  10. pbekkerh

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    With the original setup I have to unscrew the burner every time I pack it. The new setup enables packing without unscrewing, although I would like a shorter connection.

    The original had a fixed clamp, so no going back without screw clamps :content:
     
  11. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Also note that if there was a regulator built into the canister connection and valve assembly you removed(would explain why it was so chunky, plus I see what might be a hole for atmospheric pressure reference), the replacement you've put in place is NOT a regulator and will be giving full canister pressure to the burner, which it's not designed for.

    Then use the screw clamps, properly installed and maintained they are safe. Alternatively, look up Oetiker clamps as I mentioned, that's what was installed originally.

    Really recommend you buy a stove that will do what you want in it's factory original form. I don't want to be a wet blanket or rain on your parade, but you don't appear to have the knowledge or experience necessary to make these modifications safely. We'd all rather help you choose a new stove than have you posting "what went wrong?" from the burn ward.
     
  12. pbekkerh

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    I close this thread. Please don´t post.
     
  13. Ed Winskill

    Ed Winskill United States Subscriber

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    Nobody but moderators close threads at CCS.
     
  14. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Please heed advice that is given for no price of admission.
     
  15. Knee

    Knee Poland PotY Winner SotM Winner Subscriber

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    No need to be offended.

    "It is better to listen to chastisement by a wise man,
    Than to listen to praise from fools"
    The Book of Kohelet. ..seems to me...
     
  16. Rangie

    Rangie SotM Winner Subscriber

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    See if you can locate a small-form fuel-tolerant quick-connector, that would be an excellent solution for packability :thumbup:

    Alec.
     
  17. geeves

    geeves New Zealand Subscriber

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    In another place I ran into wire clamps. The original poster asked the question in much the same way this was poster and naturally he was told it was a bad idea. Turns out he was meaning a proper wire clamp system that is widely used in the aviation industry which clamps far better than any hose clamp. English as a second language is the cause of many misunderstandings and resulting conflict.
     
  18. ArchMc

    ArchMc SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I didn't want to get involved in this, but obviously if you're dealing with a broken stove in the wild, you fix it any way you can. Wire seems like a pretty good choice in this situation, but I would replace that with a proper clamp before using the stove again.

    ....Arch
     
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