Well actually found this in a local antique (junk) dealer's. Theb jewel in the crown is the original (not for this stove though) jet socket, just happened to see it attached to another 2 pinter. Since I already have a surplus of 2 pint stoves I talked the vendor into just selling me the socket, which he did, Yeaahhhhh baby. Fettling will now take place
GDAY Lads This little beauty is stamped "X1" from the date index this is 1933. Looks about right for the patina Keep you posted PS I think I"m missing the burner spanner and the brass windshield, any clues on this appreciated Cheers Rod
Yes it looks good man! I love my 96! You may want to check with Basecamp UK and see if they have the original parts on stock to go with it.
Base Camp has aftermarket parts like a spanner, other original parts can be found on evil bay from used stoves. Duane
Gday lads, yes found all the parts I needed, seems the windshield was an optional extra. Decided to make a spanner from an old OXY gauge one, works just fine. As usual the NRV is locked harder than a Parking officers attitude. Soaking in WD40 at present, might try soaking in Acetic acid (white vinegar) and salt, then judicious heat etc. Cheers Rod
My tool was custom made. There are a few versions members have made here, you may be able to search. My tool is able to be screwed onto the pump tube, preventing it from rising off of the NRV head which my other tools are not able to do. There has still been a couple really tough NRV’s it has been unable to shift. I can post a pic in a bit. Duane PS: A couple of Stu’s first tools. My custom tool can be placed on small and large stoves, using the right pump collar.
Careful with brass in prolonged contact with acid- it strips out the zinc and weakens the brass. The end of the pump tube is soldered to a fitting into which the NRV is screwed, heat enough to have any effect on loosening the NRV is also going to cause the end fitting to fall off into the tank of the stove.
@Rod Bowers Being an Aussie, if you can get your hands on some Penetrene use that instead of WD 40 or vinegar. If your NRV is still hard to budge, put the Penetrene in the tank as well. Also: a substitute for commercial penetrating oil is 50:50 acetone/automatic transmission fluid; but you need to shake it hard before use to emulsify the ingredients. Cheers Tony EDIT: I use this type of NRV spanner: [Photo: @hikerduane] You can make a similar item by using the correct diameter rod or bolt and cutting a slot in it with a grinding wheel.
I purchased this tool from ebay. Haven't used it yet, but it has a sliding barrel to remove excess play, but it doesn't lock in.
I purchased that same tool from the guy in Taiwan. It works well. Cover the sharp edge at the end with a towel so it does not cut into your palm.
Gday all, thanks for all the very useful info. Duane that is an impressive piece of kit, obviously a great deal of really nice machining, respect to whomever made this. I'm following my fettling protocols which means you pull the NRV etc, As it turns out I don't think this NRV actually leaks, the pump tube holds fluids for well over 24 hours with no sign of leaking. Anyway waiting on a service kit from the UK, when it arrives the pump will tell the story. As to heat, I will, if necessary, heat the NRV socket and apply this to the NRV., not direct heat from a torch. The vinrgar is supermarket issue and is quite weak, 24 hours soak showed no issues. Thanks Blackdog all suggestions are valued. Also made my own NRV tool, but just a copy of the factory tool. I don't think this NRV is coming out, let's hope the little stove works OK with it. Pics show progress so far. Cheers PS I don;t normally polish stoves to this finish but I had to remove excess solder from around the filler fitting which involved several hours of careful filing with jewellers files, even so minor scratches eventuated hence the polishing.
The stove is looking good! Any problem with the NRV will not be revealed by the fluid staying in the pump tube. The problem will be if fluid comes out of the tank into the pump tube under pressure when the stove is operating. You may be lucky and the NRV works without it being removed (this happens, for example, when there is a cork pip in the NRV and oil or kerosene in the pump tube has softened the cork so that it forms a seal again). Good luck. Cheers Tony
Gday Tony, I was trying to convince myself that the NRV is OK LOL. I don't think it's original, someone has been messing with this stove and it's been used a fair amount by the look of it. I suspect that the NRV has been changed and they installed it without a lead washer hence the lock up. Or maybe I'm wrong. We'll see mate. cheers from Melbourne where it's back to winter Rod
Gday All Update on the Tin box/case, I decided to retain as much as possible of the patina on this and just removed as much rust and grime as possible without removing the original decals, then two coats of Matt lacquer on the outside and two coats of Zinc/Gal spray on the inside. Hopefully this will stop any further degradation. Some gentle panel beating was also required. Cheers all Rod
