My new to me stove should be arriving soon and I will see what I can do to get it restored into good working order for motor camp use. Ill "confirm" when I get it what I have but thought I would get the ball rolling with some questions and a little confusion. It was listed as an 8BP and while I have not found that particular model I have noticed some differences from the 8B. Most noticeable is the tank . . . It appears plated with squared ends and an integrated pump. I found one other with an integrated pump made by prentiss waber for another manufacture but the pump was at an angle. The only thing I know that is wrong for sure is the pump is not working but Im sure I will find more.
I have an 8B...need a separate pump...never saw this before...watching this to learn more...interesting
I would guess nickel, if so Ill retain the plating. Although if it is brass underneath I may just have to clean off the plating and polish . . .
Nickel is a white metal with a ever-so-slight warm yellow undertone to it. Lead is almost blue in color, it oxidizes and darkens with a rainbow sheen until it becomes a dull dark grey. Is the tank magnetic? "Terne metal" is lead plated steel, it used to be used to protect parts from corrosion. Lead plating also makes copper alloy parts much easier to paint. I definitely would not sand and polish that tank, it's not nickel plated.
I suspect the tank is zinc plated. Tinning was a common practice at the time that stove was made. Zinc offers corrosion resistance and a durable fininsh.
Zinc plating either looks like the golden color of outdoor construction screws (chromate conversion zinc plate) or hot dip galvanized parts, like the guard rails on the side of the highway or the post that stop signs are mounted on. Tin plate was/is used for items in direct contact with food, like tin cans. Lead and tin are actually very closely related in physical and chemical properties so lead plate also functions similarly to tin plate. The two differences being that you can buy pounds and pounds of lead for the price of a single ounce of tin, and obviously, lead is poisonous even in low doses, whereas tin is harmless. That tank is lead plated. Do with that information as you wish, I just want someone to be aware of that before they decide to vaporize it into the air with abrasives and polishing compounds
When I get it Ill find out if it's magnetic, one of the first things I planned on doing. Its nice knowing Im not alone in seeing its a little different. If it is a steel tank I intend to leave as is, I only mentioned removing the finish if it was brass so it really doesnt matter if its zinc, led, nickle, chrome, ect.
I just got it, overall in what I would consider to be possibly operable to absolutely restorable condition. The tank is magnetic so the finish will absolutely remain as is. As a side note I also got a kampkool cooler for motorcamoing
Ok, the stove is here and now cleaned up. The tank is lead plated so that question is answered. The pump was non functional but now is functional. The rest has been taken apart and cleaned. Unfortunatly I haven't been able to get it to operate (running on denatured alcohol) for more than 10-30 seconds with difficulty. It then seems to run out of gas although there is still pressure in the tank.
I cannot find the 8BP information anywhere...... But, I would think this to be a white gas stove. Please let this be verified before using white gas. I have been known to be wrong often.
Prentiss-Wabers Model No. 8B | Classic Camp Stoves Aside from the tank shape and integrated pump this appears identical. Unfortunately I cant make out the operating instructions.
Thank you for being here in case I got totally stumped. I ended up taking pretty much everything apart. Jets were cleaned out, working to unscrew the tank pickup broke the soldered fitting on the tank. Once I cleaned out and flushed the tank I resoldered it in place. I removed the pickup screen and drilled out crud then resoldered the brass screen. The pump was frozen, well leather trashed and check valve frozen. I tore that apart and fixed it. There was a bend in the tube going in so that was straightened allowing for a more direct flow of gas. I'm not sure what the settings are for lighting so I used a torch (to prevent a buildup of gas) to get it started. Unlike before when she would light and I could hear gas but it would burn out she's starting to purr now. I'm not positive I have the pickup on the correct port or even if it matters. Soaking with soap I'm finding little to no leaks
You have the pick up in the right place. That tiny hole is to let air into the system when you initially light stove. To light stove, open valve that faces left(air valve) about 1 turn. Then open fuel valve (facing at you) a turn or two, light stove. After a minute pump more air in and shut air valve. Good job gettin er goin
