I recently acquired a Svea 123R which i really like. I noticed the heatshield between the burner head and the tank consist of two discs with holes in it. I understand that the heatshield is to prevent overheating of the tank, but what is the purpose of having two discs, and what is the purpose of the holes? Should they be aligned with each other?
Holes in the shield , slot is for the pot handle , round hole for the key to stand in . haven't seen a 123 with 2 discs may have been stuck together when assembled ?
@Countdown So, the disc arrowed. As William has just said, it should be just the one disc and the small hole and rectangular slots (curiously there are two) are to stow the control key and pot handle in. Orientation of the holes to the windshield only matters to the extent that if one is located above the valve or filler cap it won’t be possible to stow the key or pot handle there.
@presscall I believe the second slot is a throw back to the 123 , used to stow the folding pricker device , at least that is what I use it for . Cheers
Thanks a lot for the helpful answers. I now realize that there can be no other explanation than two discs being stuck together during assembly. Considering the heat shield prevents overheating of the tank; Will removal of the heat shield make it more suitable for winter use (-5C and below)?
I would think not , the thermal feedback thru the bell and stem should be plenty . In cold insulating the base / font , from cold ground or snow is probably more important . a small piece of wood / metal / plastic with maybe neoprene or similar glued to the bottom side as a stove stand will due the trick . I have never had a problem with 123 / 123R performance in the cold provided a good generous prime is used . Cheers . WR
I don't consider the disc a "heat shield". Winter, you need something under stove. I use a hunk of carbon felt.
Right, don’t set the stove directly on the ground, on ice or snow. A board or a piece of ensolite, anything really. And of course keep it out of the wind at all costs. If it’s really cold you will quickly discover that this “warm the tank with your hands” business to get a prime going is going to result in frostbite damage to fingers. More aggressive priming methods are used. This is why well-loved alpine examples are always very sooty and dirty.
So, you arrived at camp, a higher elevation than home. You just open the valve, and fuel comes out into the priming dish. Easy peasy. There are SOOOOO many ways to prime these.
Svea 123/R priming methods: Fire Ribbon Eye dropper of White Gas Splash of overproof alcohol Hexamine tab, or part of one Altitude pressure differential [Thx Ken] Piggybacking on already running stove [not for beginners] Pumping up internal pressure with Optimus pump [req special gas cap] and opening to let a trickle fill the priming cup. I must have cold hands -- warming with my fingers never produced any fuel flow Can't think of anymore... If you've got a 123R and don't have the manual pricker, you can use the extra slot for a stubby or folding Spoon or Spork.
Open valve, remove cap. Take a breath. Blow into tank till fuel dribbles into dish. Replace cap. Close valve. Light fuel. Yes, I have done that.
Not when it’s 0° deg. you haven’t. Rarely are those ingenious techniques, apparently, are ever employed once it gets cold.
There's always Colin Fletcher's method, from the Complete Walker, a tea paper wrapper lit and used under the SVEA tank.
It works really well in “normal” or temperate climes. One thing to always try to remember, is equalize the vacuum inside the tank after the last use. Once it gets *cold*, then this technique becomes self-limiting, as it is murder on fingers.
Lots of folks on this forum have made a little horseshoe - shaped wick out of fiberglass rope that you install in the priming dish that soaks up the priming fluid and keeps it from dribbling down the side of the tank. Also allows you to add more priming fluid than you normally would for those cold weather starts. Works really well - would highly recommend it.
snwcmpr, I smiled at your comment about the elevation change priming. Worked for me many times when hiking in the Sierra Nevada. Elevation change plentiful in those parts.
