Hi all. While checking over my recently acquired 8R, I noticed that the cleaning needle does not rise above the jet when the valve is turned fully counterclockwise. I removed the jet to check further. The needle is intact and does rise and fall as the valve is operated. This is my first 8R. Should the needle protrude above the surface of the jet at a full counterclockwise rotation of the valve stem or is just below the surface OK? It protrudes on my Svea 123R. I’ll also add that the stove (8R) shuts off properly when rotated fully clockwise. Thanks
I think it should at least be just slightly proud of the jet orifice, otherwise it would not clear an obstruction.
Thanks. I’ll reset it. I’m guessing it’s the same method as a 123R. Had to crank shut a little too hard to extinguish the flame on my 2nd light up tonight. Just kept candling. I’ll check the taper on the valve stem.
Candling is more common than thought of. Hot stove more likely. Try running and shutting off without the pricker.
The spindle is not coming out easily. Perhaps the graphite packing is too tight. I’ll take my time on it, stove has seen very little use by the prior owner(s) and I don’t want to damage anything. Any tips on making the spindle removal easier are appreciated.
Don’t worry about the spindle taper just yet, the self-cleaning needle mechanism is probably the culprit. It needs to be installed with the correct number of “clicks” for lack of a better term. Very common defect after re-installation. Manufacturing tolerances vary enough from stove to stove that some experimentation might be in order. As you surmise, the pricker needle must clear the jet orifice at full rotation. But the spindle needle must also fully seat at the full opposite rotation setting. Candling or seepage is a classic symptom of a misaligned self-cleaning needle.
Good info, thanks! I’ll give an update after resetting it. Just have to get the spindle out so I can remove the pricker. Might be a few days until I can work on it again.
No, don’t mess with the spindle. Forget about that for now. Put everything back. The pricker is divorced from the spindle assembly as far as removal and re-installation is concerned. There are a few threads archived here that will explain setting the pricker correct for your stove. Takes just a few seconds. Might take a few iterations. You’ll get it.
@TSPORT To be clear. If you want to remove the spindle, you have to take the pricker/rack out of the burner. See here (it’s for the Svea123 but the same rule applies): SVEA 123R Disassembly Tony
Tony & Fettle, thank you for clarifying that. I thought I had the valve full left and the pricker still wouldn’t come out. Thought the spindle was holding it in. Will check again.
The 8R’s cleaning needle is designed a little differently from the 123R. If it’s just under or flush with the jet opening, that’s normal. Its purpose is mainly to clear carbon when you crank it, not to stay extended.
Finally got back to the stove. Had a heck of a time getting the pricker out. It was loose but would not come out. Had to crank counterclockwise excessively on the valve to get it to release. Reset it 3 clicks and tried stove. Pricker extends above jet now when full counterclockwise. Stove requires a firmer effort than I would like to shut off without candling but it does shut off. Stove is pulsing now even after warmed up. I tried it again without the pricker installed. Same. No leaks from cap or valve. I did release the pressure in the fount before preheating and it’s about 1/2 to 2/3rds full of fuel. Thoughts? I’ll also add that this stove has seen very little use and is very clean inside and out.
Wick not properly in place? May still be bad, a look might resolve the issue with the wick pulled out. Can be frustrating figuring it out. Try to flush the fuel path, may be debris in there, causing valve to not seal. Remove everything again and try to force fuel thru, carb cleaner sprayed might help. Duane
