I have become moderately proficient in giving old No. 2 and No. 2 & 3 stoves the seals, pips, and gasket treatment and as such have become the resident expert to fix others in my reenactment community. I've finally run into one that wasn't easily cured with some gentle attention and was hoping to turn to you all for some advice. I have a 1966 No. 2 stove in my care that does not pump up well. Normally I would remove the plunger and cap, unscrew the pump body from the tank and see to the check valve. However, some penetrating cleaner, and the longest 15/16" wrench I own have yet to get it to budge. The red gasket is there, and I see no sign of a foreign sealant but I've just had zero luck in turn it. It's getting to the point where I'm bending the tank /tube with my hands in attempt to get purchase on it to turn the valve body. Vice grips (as much as I hesitated to tear up the brass) did not help much either. Suggestions for uncoupling these two parts? I am not comfortable using a torch as the tank has some remnant fuel and fumes etc.
Meaning what, exactly? Sometimes the air pressurises and there’s resistance in pumping, sometimes the leather pump cup doesn’t trap the air and there’s no resistance? Maybe?
I'll submit some photos when I get home. I had already replaced the pump leather which improved performance, but I think the check valve may be stuck or functioning improperly. It doesn't suck back fuel like I saw on another example where the pip was missing, but you can crank on it and only get a little pressure. I can feel the leather is sealing and pushing air. It just takes hundreds of pumps to get any meaningful pressure. A leak check on the cap, valve and at the jet didn't show issues there.
I'll reassemble and attempt a dunk test when I get some time tomorrow. I was going to try an impact gun and sockets next to try and break it loose but I'll start with the test.
I did previously but this was sent back to me. I will reassemble and dunk test first. I'm replacing the pump leather again just to be certain its brand spanking new. Pharael, I got an email you sent me a message about getting the NRV out but I don't see it on here anymore.
Ah I was more focused on the seal/fitting I can't get to turn. I'll see about a better internal photo.
@CharlieReenactsPBI In the event after testing, you find you need to remove the NRV… There is an NRV removal method I always use that has been 100% successful for me. This however requires an NRV removal tool to be able to locate fully onto the head of the NRV. The best explanation of how to undertake this very simple method is to watch a video of it being performed - and by who else but Bernie Dawg himself…@3.48 mins from the start of the video. Another method I have tried in the past to see if it would work (sometimes did and sometimes didn’t) is pouring boiling water into the pump tube. Let it sit there for about 15 seconds, pour out and then repeat. After pouring out the second batch of boiling water, try removing the NRV with the NRV removal tool. Hope this is of help to you. Pharael.
Ah ok. I don't think that will work on this model. The NRV is threaded to the outside of the pump tube, not internally like the one Bernie Dawg was working with. The tighten, then loosen is a good thought though, as is the boiling water
Ahhh, apologies - I misunderstood. At least you have the method(s) for internal NRV removal if required.
Not having worked on that particular tank, I can assure you that heat would make a huge difference. Clean out tank, or just put cap on. Heat is always your friend working on stuck parts. Just be aware of things that are soft soldered. An impact gun will also be much more effective than a wrench.
