I have stumbled across a quantity of copper washers of various sizes. I've seen the odd copper washer on some of my stoves (eg the lower washer on the removable burner riser on a Hipolito No1 https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/25046 ). Does anyone have any advice about the suitability or otherwise of copper washers in various functions on pressure stoves? Best regards Tony
G,,day Tony, I haven't used, but I can think of applications. As long as the washer is annealed and flat on both faces with no upturned burrs on the edges from being punched in manufacture and the parts going together are strong enough to allow enough compression to seal. I base this on my diesel fuel injection system. The low pressure side has a lot of aluminium and copper washers are used. I think I wouldn't use for something that is taken apart and put back together in the field, because of work hardening. I probably don't need to mention a bubble leak test in water to check. one side benefit is they can be re-used by annealing. My diesel's sump is cast alloy, the plug steel, copper washer. I have been using the same washer for many years, annealed each oil change. cheers kerry
Kerry's comments sum it up perfectly. If you've got a stock they'd be worth trying, given the points Kerry's made. Otherwise, my experience with copper or aluminium washers is that they are much more unforgiving - potentially leaky - when it comes to making a seal in stove applications (I'm thinking burner riser stem to burner joint primarily) than the usual heat-resisting washers. The joint's got to be torqued up that much tighter than is necessary with the regular type washers. John
The requirements for a copper washer to be a suitable seal will be the accuracy of the two faces it contacts. The softer lead and fibrous washers will seal maybe slightly better when the two contact surfaces are less than perfect, but an annealed copper washer should do the job as annealing softens the copper. There will be some galvanic corrosion between different metals, though between brass and copper this is slight, and needs an electrolyte such as water. But most plumbing connections are made using copper and brass and of course carry water. So not really a problem there. Engine sump washers I have never annealed - and seldom replaced. Don't leak either. Though I have annealed solid copper head gaskets - on the Bas**rd Stopped Again . . .
I anneal my sump plug washer as I don't want to over-torque the plug to make sure it doesn't weep. It only takes a minute, so why not? Much better than risk damaging the sump. Personal choice - a lot of people fit a new washer each time. cheers kerry
copper should work where a spanner can be used to tighten. Anealing is a good idea. Dont expect it to seal as easy as the lead washers though. Your analogy with diesel engines holds true right up to the seal between injector and head. I had to replace my injectors and reused the copper washers on the second hand injectors straight into my head. One took two attempts to seal but all good after that. As for aluminium washers they were invented by the devil to encourage the use of words not in the dictionary. Had to replace a sump washer and the local parts store (only one in cycle distance) only had ally washers. Twas ok that first time but next change one a Sunday evening that washer had no intention of sealing again. Undoing saw it covered in scores and pilling. Ended up covered in silicon just to complete the oil change. Must remember to get new washers before next change.
Hi Stonehopper, what B@st@rd was yours? My B31 only needed a slight lapping in with valve grinding paste to guarantee a leak proof barrel to head joint (no gasket! ). The others never really gave me any problems with head gaskets. Only worn out crankshaft bearings (bronze bushes) on the A65 .... Best regards, Wim
Oh - way back a C15, then later an A10 (Road Rocket, sometimes with a chair), then lastly a B31 (plunger rear end). Never got to ride that one, but did restore it to running order before selling. I'd have liked to have kept the B31 as it suited my riding style, but needed space and some dosh, and there are others awaiting in the wings for injections of too much money - Italian beasties. Best Derek
Off topic, but: I had BSA Roughrider B40 and an A650. Many a long ride across the vast land of Australia. I once had to replace a broken carburettor needle circlip on the B40 on the side of the road by fashioning one out of copper wire using a spanner and a rock...
I want to thank everyone for sharing all this useful information. My Vesta stove came with a copper washer. I couldn't get the old washer to seat no matter how much I tightened the fitting. So, I fashioned a replacement washer out of lead. It worked fine but it wasn't "right." After reading this thread I found and purchased the right sized copper washers from UK eBay. I annealed them using a propane torch and removed the burrs by rubbing them on 400 grit sandpaper turned up on a flat surface. I tightened the fitting with a wrench (spanner) and it sealed tight first time. You guys are the best!
Some years ago I had a mint Hipolito burner of the 'Primus No.2 size'. I originally bought it for my Primus but ended up swapping it with another member for the correct Primus burner. Anyway . . . . . the Hipolito burner came fitted with a factory-fitted copper washer. It was not a plain washer but had been stamped with ridges that would be able to be squashed to make a tight seal when tightened.
Hi Kerry - now that is some question. It was a long time ago and my memory just seems to give me brief flashes of that washer. First of all, the washer was thin enough to be be able to mould under pressure to the shape of the mating surfaces. I think the 'ridging' was a concentric ridge on one side with a corresponding valley on the other. But I have to admit that I never really looked at it closely.
