Hello everyone! I came across a fascinating USSR stove today, but it has a rather unique burner that has me curious. I'd be so grateful if anyone help me identify it? I'm wondering if this burner might be a later addition from a different model. Thanks in advance for your support. Regards, Migwar
@Migwar My ‘MADE IN USSR’ stove has a standard silent burner and caps fitted. Looks to me that the stove’s original silent caps are likely missing and someone has covered this up…literally. Pharael.
@Migwar @gieorgijewski probably has a better idea than me about the stove and burner, but the inner and outer cap of a conventional silent burner work together to channel and mix the fuel/air to produce the ring of flamelets, with just a ‘hiss’ sound, as well as maintaining vapourisation of the fuel. Underneath that perforated dome would be of interest. Without some sort of effective inner cap or baffles I’d expect a column of yellow flame after the initial heat of priming dissipates and the burner fails to vapourise the fuel. The ‘dome’ resembles something seen on a butane stove burner, where the fuel is already a gas when it reaches the burner. John
Thank you, @presscall and @Pharael, for your helpful feedback. You're right, this is quite an unusual design. After examining the dome from above, it's clear the welding is well done. However, there is no inner cap. Looking at the perforations, I see the one directly in the line of the jet is closed, which would deviate the gasified kerosene. But without an inner cap, the 'silent burner' principle doesn't seem to apply here. Given that the core concept appears to be obsolete, I have 2 options,the nonsense option to try to burn it, or to return it to the seller. Best regards, Migwar
Hello again, I have replaced today, the previous stove with the one below. However, it is missing a leg and both the inner and outer caps for the silent burner. While these are very important parts, there is no major defect; if I can source them, the stove should be operational quickly. Thank you, Migwar
@Migwar A regulating burner is a useful thing to have, given the facility to clean the jet with the in-built pricker as well as controlling the flame.
Thanks, @presscall. I was aware of that, and it was a key factor in my decision to add the stove to my inventory despite missing some parts. For reference, I previously had a regulated 5S stove years ago and knew its functionality advantages and beauty. I am now hesitant regarding cleaning the tank itself, while I barely can read the engravings. I will walk the way slowly with this piece. Thanks again
Hello again, I am kindly seeking advice regarding an issue with this Svea regulated burner, as I am trying to test it, it is failing to vaporize fuel, producing only a liquid stream (straight) despite thorough priming. Note that I am trying to operate it with the inner and outer caps borrowed from the 5S burner. My primary question is whether the incorrect caps could be causing insufficient heat transfer to the burner. Shall the inner and outer caps be the specific ones for this Svea burner? This is my initial theory before I proceed with disassembly to inspect for and remove any carbon accumulation if existing, via quenching or heat/air method (I am always reluctant to disassemble parts not to leave endentations over them).
@Migwar To begin with, if by ‘quenching’ you mean heating the burner up with a gas torch and then quenching in cold water, please, never ever do this as it can lead to serious issues with the burner as this stresses the burner joints which can then lead to burner joint(s) failure/leakage. I use two methods to internally clean a burner which are: 1) Ultrasonic cleaner 2) Compressed air/heat The 5S caps by themselves would not cause non-vaporisation of the fuel. As an aside, you can purchase replacement SVEA caps for your stove from Base Camp in the U.K. Contact us I would suggest carrying out the following base-line actions initially, assuming there are no obvious pressure leaks on the stove, ie worn filler cap seal, leaking NRV etc: 1) Fit new burner seal(s) 2) Check the condition of the graphite seal on the control spindle and replace if worn. Graphite tape to make a new graphite seal can be purchased from our sponsor The Fettle Box Graphite Tape for control spindle - The Fettlebox 3) Set the cleaning needle to 4 clicks 4)Test fire Pharael.
Thank you for the organized details @Pharael which solution so you use for the Ultrasonic machine? Regards, Migwar
@Migwar With a regulator, I will first strip it down completely - and so therefore remove the jet, cleaning needle and control spindle. To clean the inner burner tubes, I use just water with the ultrasonic cleaner set to 80C / 176F and the timer to 20 mins. I then repeat the cycle as many times as I feel necessary. My ultrasonic cleaner has two transducers and I like to only have them running for a maximum of 20mins per cleaning cycle, then let them ‘rest’ for 10 mins before starting another cycle - this will prolong the life of the transducers - which tend to be the cause of most ultrasonic cleaner electrical failures. Not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but when the burner is completely immersed in the water, tilt the bottom of the burner up a little which will evacuate any resident air pockets which you’ll see as bubbles, so you can be sure the burner tubes are entirely full with water. If I wished to additionally carry out a general clean of a burner in the ultrasonic cleaner, then I would add a very small amount of citric acid, but would limit the clean to one cycle only - and would not include the cleaning needle due action of the citric acid potentially causing an issue with the steel of the needle itself. Pharael.
Hello @Pharael Thank you again for your help. I've now completed the dismantling and inspection of the burner. The interior is in remarkably clean condition with no signs of carbon buildup or residue. During the inspection, I noted that there were what appear to be asbestos washers between the burner, the priming plate, and the tank neck. As a precaution, I carefully removed and cleaned them under water to minimize any asbestos dust. For the reassembly, I need to replace these washers and am deciding between copper and lead replacements. I believe both are good conductors of heat. Before I test again the brner, I wanted to get your opinion, do you have a preference for lead or copper washers? Best regards, Migwar
One more point please: The tank neck is engraved with "201458," which I believe identifies this Primus No.1 as manufactured in 1958. However, the burner itself is engraved with "1915." I've been unable to find a regulated burner model from that early date, so could this perhaps be a model number instead? I am as well thinking of requesting a change to this thread title. Regards, Migwar
@Migwar What you need to fit are new replacement fibre burner washers which you can obtain from The Fettle Box. Not sure how you have you come to this conclusion. The ‘1915’ stamped into your SVEA regulator burner is the model number. The following picture is taken from the 1956 SVEA Product Catalogue Pharael.
Thank you very much for the details, @Pharael. I am now committed to get the burner running properly and will order the necessary parts. My conclusion was after the visual inspection, after dismantling the burner, its interior appears to be in like-new condition with no residue buildup. I also ran a copper wire through the tubes and inspected the jet, both of which were completely clean and showed no signs of debris, both were shining from inside. With many thanks, Migwar
@Migwar I suggest you order a service kit for the stove so that all the seals can be replaced. Pharael
…with some additional burner seals (as there are two you need to replace and it is also good to have some spare). Pharael.
Found some seals, replaced them, double primed it this morning and voila. Still have to order inner and outer caps, as the ones used for testing were borrowed from another stove, find the missing leg and solder it. Thanks for all, Migwar
