@rik_uk3 I couldn't quote you the size, but I located a close match to the ones I removed by rummaging through one of those assortment boxes that crop up at Machine Mart (in Imperial and Metric versions), Aldi occasionally and such places. They passed a 'dunking in fuel for a few hours' test I carried out before installing them.
I went into http://www.sealimports.com/ to get mine. Obviously this place is a little far for you to walk but you are bound to have similar suppliers
John, Another of your excellent posts. Old Coleman Parts should have replacement O rings. Also, the sealing rings on the lantern Schrader valves are fuel resistant/proof. Bicycle valves are not. Important to use the right one. Lantern/stove Schrader valves are also available from OCP. There are two different non-return valves for Coleman lanterns/stoves as you noted. The sole difference is in the internal hole. Otherwise they are interchangeable as long as the matching air stem is used. Same goes for check valves with/without o ring. There is a check valve removal tool available for about $35 USD. Some argue that there is no need no remove the check valve in a routine rebuild. I have encountered very few of the valves which needed replacement but the tool makes removal such a simple job that it is part of my rebuild routine. It makes it much easier for clean the valve, the pump tube and check for debris in the air tube at the far end of the pump. If you only do one Coleman product a year probably not worth it, but if most of your work is on Coleman stuff it's very handy to have. But then I'm also a tool junkie and have a bunch of limited use tools in the shop. Horses for courses I guess. Again a very well done post. Overcooked sheep!
Recently my Feather (442) stopped working, opening the shut off valve did not produce the usual hissing noise. I have detached the generator from the valve and it looks like the thin wire in the generator has detached from the valve assembly. In the picture in this "fettle" it looks like it should be attached. Is it possible to repair this? If I buy a new generator will this have this wire in it? Or will I have to accept that my stove is dead.
You say it looks like it’s detached? Sorry, but surely it would be obvious if the cleaning wire had broken away from the brass hook component? Not really repairable, best to buy a new generator. Yes it will. John
You are correct. The misunderstanding may come from the fact that I have no idea if and how the thread should be attached to the brass "hook", but it is no longer attached. I understand from your remark it is probably better to buy a new generator, which I will do. I understand that the generator for the 442 will also fit the Coleman Sportster, so might treat myseld to a new burner (you can never have enough burners).
I just had the same problem. I was gifted a 442. So, that is the total amount of money I will put into it. $0.00 I will not buy a generator for it. Stubborn!! My wire IS detached. And there is a hole in the 'hook'. >>It does go back into the hole so the wire could be attached. >>The wire DOES work its way back into, and out of, the jet. Because I got the generator clean and free of the crap that locked the wire to begin with. (NOTE: DO NOT USE AUTO FUEL IN THIS STOVE, EVEN THOUGH IT SAYS THAT YOU CAN) I am pondering clamping the hook and thus locking the wire in. I tried to heat it, with the wire in the hook, but it did not attach, so I am thinking it is not solder. (But, I could be wrong). If I solder it, I can remove it, if I clamp it, I cannot. More later.
I soldered it with a little flux and electrical solder. The stove works. Simmer and high. Photos, of flame and bad looking solder, later.
I used some electrical solder on a AGM stove once for a test fire, it last about 6 seconds before it melted. Perhaps the fuel in generator will help cool yours.
What part did you solder? Thank you. I now see it may not be a great idea. I will fix it before I burn it again. This is what I did last night. I burned it for at least a half hour. I even put the Bernzomatic torch flame on the generator, the full length, for quite a while. The lever turned it on and off many times. Ken in NC
The issue with soft (lead) solder as opposed to hard (silver - silbraze) solder isn’t just its low melting point but its low resistance, as a soft metal, to mechanical forces in tension and torsion. That said, it seems to have worked so far for Ken (@snwcmpr) though I wonder for how much longer. Crimping and soft soldering would enhance reliability.
That is because the wire was not inserted into the brass tube for the correct length at the factory. Your wire pulled out of the brass tube. Wire was possibly the correct length making it poke out at the gas tip too much. All the generators of your kind have the wires all the way to the end of the brass tube. I would share a pic but I do not have a macro lens for my camera. If you get a new one look at the hook closely and you can tell me if the new one is different than what I am describing.
I have an old AGM #1? single burner that has a spot for the tip cleaner in the burner housing, but no tip cleaner, so I filled the .040 hole with solder just for testing. It was a short test.
John, I kindly suggest to use viton o-rings whenever possible, especially if it is in direct contact with gasoline or oils. Nitrile or NBR o-rings causes problems after a while. They become harder and may change their sizes.Viton o-ring perform exceptionally well in these stoves and they withstand higher teperarures, as a bonus. Viton o-rings are a bit more expensive. Coleman may have used two different types of o-rings for cost savings. The one with direct contact with gasoline may be viton and the other one may be nitrile (or NBR) used to position the valve core better and for a second barrier if the first one leaks.
