Hello everyone, You can kindly see below some pictures for an Optimus No. 00 which my wife got from her dad's old things. I am kindly asking your support to date it. I knew that Optimus did not number their stoves and that their stoves were dated by ranges mainly. I haven't seen similar pump knob on the forum, I wish this could give further indications. Appreciate any support. With regards, Migwar
My initial thought (guess) is 1950's. So what is there to go on? The burner head is cast OPTIMUS SWEDEN: Looking at my Patent stoves, they are simply cast OPTIMUS and the Patent marking ended sometime in latter half of 1930s, so the lack of Patent and the burner head suggests a time frame of late 1930's up to 1962, when burner marking changed to OPTIMUS PRIMUS. Stove is bottom stamped "UPPL VASBY" possibly denotes a similar time frame as before - certainly before the PTC in 1962, which resulted in a simple Made in Sweden base stamping. The other tank markings (globe etc) are the same as on stoves I have that have been attributed to 1950's - but mine have been in tins where the graphics go in a time sequence and they formed a part in the date guesstimating. I guess yours has no tin to help here? All the above is guesswork and offered with a view to maybe starting some discussion - I have a number of 00 stoves, but I am no expert (as others may tell you).
Thank you @hikerduane for the note regarding the pump shaft; I did receive 3 stoves, and I hope there was just a mix-up. I will check the remaining, I haven't checked them yet (totally covered with dust). Thank you for the update and observations @Dean , this is duly noted. There was no tin included; the stove arrived in its current condition, and fortunately, the 3 removable legs were intact. Will keep guessing to reduce the range.
The pump knob should be brass and with a threaded edge on which the reserve cap gets screwed for safe keeping. Picture shows two examples, left one with reserve cap screwed onto knob and right with it unscrewed.
The Optimus was among several stoves, whose brands I couldn't even recognize because of the grime. I cleaned them all today, and it turned out to be: Phoebus No.2, Hiplolito No. 1, and the Optimus No.00. Since I chose not to preserve the old patina on these stoves, let's see what the next step will bring. Next step will be cleaning with citric acid solution, while paying attention to color change. This is the first time I am prioritizing the esthetic on functioning first, as I am eager to observe the engravings on these stoves as an appealing motivation to continue the restoration process.
Hello again everyone, Handling this Optimus No. 00 is challenging. After performing initial cleaning and repairing the NRV, it's now time to address the burner. I opted for a quick replacement with an unfired burner of the same size (Optimus/Primus) that I have on hand, then will be dealing later with the burner aside. The difficult part is removing the stubborn burner itself; it's proving to be a challenge, and given the tank's fragility, I need some advice. There are two issues to tackle: the burner is attached to the neck of the stove, which is also secured to the stove with a nut. I would prefer to remove just the burner. I'm concerned that using a direct torch flame to the burner nut, might lead to melting something, despite filling the tank with water and using a damp cloth to keep the neck cool. However, I need a more precise method if anyone can assist. The stove is small and seems sensitive, and the burner is resisting big time. Thank you, Migwar
Hi @Migwar the 00 Optimus was designed to be easily dismantled to put in a tin for backpacking. The joint intended for burner assembly removal is the one right on the tank top. The seal in that joint is a lead washer and it should undo quite easily as it was intended for repeated assembly and disassembly in regular use. Once the whole burner assembly is off the tank the really tight joint between the burner, priming cup and base riser can be undone safely by holding the bottom hex in a vice while you apply spanner to the burner itself. Once the burner has been cleaned out or replaced clean off all those middle joint surfaces, use new washers top and bottom of the priming ring, and tighten firmly again in the vice. Finally check condition of the tank to burner assembly joint lead washer, replace if necessary, it may be reusable, then replace the whole assembly on to the tank. But don't tighten that joint too much. It only needs to be sufficient to make a seal. Test then retighten a little bit more only if there is seepage of paraffin.
Thank you @igh371 so much for the important information. The challenge is to disassemble it now. It is stuck. Best regards, Migwar
