Hello, I have started cleaning and stripping my first in need of TLC stove. Two questions so far: the fuel bottle / reservoir has 2 lids, 1 marked M, and 1 marked G. The holes in the bottom of each seem ( no calipers available today) to be different in diameter. What is the difference? And...I am missing one of the 2 screws that secured the retaining strap for the reservoir and heat shield. Does anyone know what size it is, or where I can obtain spares from please? Thanks, Matt
Morning, and a lovely one it is in East Sussex. Here is a photo of the fuel reservoir back in place. The screw for the right hand foot is missing, so any ideas on sizes or sources please...and I seem to have two brass caps for the reservoir as described in the original post. Why 2? Thanks, Inexperienced in E.Sussex.
Two caps? But only the one filler location (as normal)? Pick one, replace the seal and go with it. More photos would be useful. Alec.
Hello again, I hope this help. Another issue, the pipe running from the reservoir to the actual burner cup seems to have had the nut tightened by a gorilla.... I have some fuel now so will pressurise it this eve or tomorrow eve and see.if there are any leaks before I add flames.
The NATO Stock Number (NSN) for this part is : 7310 99 139 4027 The designation 7310 indicates it is food cookery, bakery and serving equipment. The No.99 records that it was first listed by the United Kingdom whilst the final 7 digits are inventory numbers. Best Regards, Kerophile.
The filler caps may be different because of the different manufactures involved, they'll both fit and the seals are the same. Give it a dozen pumps empty and dunk it in a bowl of water to see if you get any bubbles, if you do, then you'll need to change the appropriate seals. Hope it works out well for you, they're great stoves. When you do light it, pre-heat with meths, cleaner than using petrol. Tim
"Today we have naming of parts" - Brit Army No.2 (Modified) stove Pipe fitting on burner base is a bit weak and the compression joint tends to require tightening often due to the stresses and leverage levied on it by the heavy burner its supporting and the control spindle operating tool. I had one of these where repeated tightening by a squaddie had crushed the compression 'olive' to the extent that no more tightening was having an effect and the whole burner spun around on the fitting. From above post
You can't get a better introduction to the British Army No 2 stove than @presscall 's dissertation in this post @kerophile mentioned, certainly helped me with my mine. Have both silent and roarer versions, both run very well. Tim
I'd go one further than that and suggest that unless you know the age and pedigree of the seals, replace them with quality parts from a trustworthy supplier. They are consumable service parts with limited lifespan whether they are used or not. Given the volatility of the fuel and the danger that goes with it, it's safest to take a planned approach to maintenance, rather than checking if unknown currently fitted seals haven't failed yet.
The leak test described by @Tim Read is a great idea after overhaul and before lighting, just in case of other problems or if anything gets ovelooked
Morning, Thanks for all the comments. I will order some new seals. The reservoir cap seal is not 100% as I can see small bubbles when the reservoir is pressurised. The jet seems clear because I can hear a hiss, however, no fuel comes out? I should initially get some fuel which falls into the collar so I can preheat?
Hi Matthew, yes that is what the instructionssay, however it's cleaner to preheat with meths. If the jet is hissing when you open the valve, then that is ok if pressurised without fuel in it. Tim
Thanks. I also only seem to get escaping air ( but no fuel) when there is fuel in the reservoir. I suppose I could drain the reservoir of fuel, then try flushing the pipe that runs from the reservoir to the burner. Although if gas can make it out, so should vapour/ liquid??
