So.... I thought I had a great stove but it did a few things when running that were not exactly as what I would say is best. It pulsed ... It ran a little yellow.... sometimes it needed a preheat or two to get running decent. I was not too impressed but thought maybe this is how they run. Then...I got a new stove. One of those coil stesco/handy camper stove types...and that's when I knew there was something wrong with the Taylkit as this stove ran beautifully.....I was irritated and decided to finally figure out the windshield as mine was missing I made some out of folded brass sheet. It improved but I think I had to too short and it was pretty flimsy so today I made a new one. And this made the stove 100% better. Very easy to make I took a 28mm (1mm thick) brass tube. I took it to my vise and cut the tub down to the length of the original I then to it to the vice and compressed it down to an oval shape. Then with a triangle file and a round rod file I cut slots for the air to come in from the bottom After a few more squeezes in the vise it fit fit perfect and here is how it sits And now ..the burn. It runs so much better now.... Like I thought it would. And this is after just lighting it... Not a violent flame... But a soft hissing fan of fire.... And now... To those wondering what the slots are for... Air flow...and to fit in the case! This does not rattle around in the case Hope this helps someone who is like me who has a great stove missing the heat shield. This cost me $4 for the brass tube Now back in the box ready to go!
I thought the notch was for air intake, but after reading to the end I understood. As you can see in the photo, it feels great to have the parts securely fastened and stored away!
@Pharael thanks man! Yeah I was not too fond of it as it seemed a bit anemic initally...doing the heat shield like this made it an entirely different stove for me.
Appreciate it @Knee it does not run well at all without a windscreen as this one likes to have the heat keep the pressure up... But it's like a whole new stove to me now
Does anyone know what the original chimney on the Taykit stoves was made of? The one on my Stesco is steel I believe and I'm wondering if replacing it with a brass one would improve it by increasing the thermal feedback. Or would the extra feedback cause the lead safety disk in the filler cap to melt? Regards John
@Jeopardy The original is steel but I didnt have one to use. @Pharael has the shield and a few others on the forum. The stove (Taykit) after about 15 minutes gets pretty hot, but not hotter in my opinion that say a SVEA 123R does with the brass windscreen on. I also have a stesco (called "Pine Campers Stove") and it already has a brass windscreen on it. I think you would be fine. The cap on mine does not have the lead though, it was replaced by a viton disk. The fuel cap does not have the piloted hole in it. Came with a brass windshield that is semi circle.
@Remus1956 I'm sure you know that "Pine" is a Stesco clone,not a true Stesco. I've never seen one of that name. Often Lil Injun or Camper I made a windscreen for my Taykit from a small, rectangular metal container I found. Yup, works better with a windscreen.
@Majicwrench Yup know its a clone...but surprised it actually works really well. Also never saw a Pine one before...wife got it for me! The real magic is the height of the tube. If the coils are exposed at the top of the windshield it acts up a lot. Once the coils are recessed inside the burner runs like a bunsen burner...really steady and blue. I am still kind of surprised at how much of a change there was. @Jeopardy if you are trying for a Stestco give it a try! At least you will not have to crush it like I had to on mine to get it to fit in a box haha.
I believe the windscreen on the Taykit is stainless steel. I'll check one of mine next time I'm in the shop. The case is monel, a nickle/copper alloy. The Taykits are very sensitive to the gap between the coils. It need to be close to .045", about the thickness of a US nickel. I use a flatblade screwdriver and pair of pliers to adjust the gap. The are also very sensitive to air leaks form the tank. I've had to replace most of the fuel cap gaskets on the 7 I have. You need to save the lump and wire from the original gasket, the wire is the pricker for the burner orifice. I've not found a commercial flat gasket that works, so just cut one from viton. A very skinny o ring might work, but it was easier to just fabricate one than hunt an o ring.
@cottage hill bill wow ...7 of them? Everything you said is absolutely correct. I actually adjusted mine on your comment regarding gap a few months ago. I found that mine takes a punch of viton (1/2" punch) as perfect for the filler cap and made a few spares to put inside. Funny... I'm running it right now testing boiling times...
Greetings, fellow enthusiasts. I once bought a Taykit that was incomplete for a pretty penny. It was missing the bottom stand, windshield, and diffuser plate. I could have done without the plate, but the rest was a must. I had to make my own. The obvious requirement was to fit everything compactly inside the case. I cut the windshield from a sheet (~0.5 mm) of stainless steel, and the base from strips of tin and aluminum. I tried to replicate the bulges and depressions of the original stamped part. I also made a removable windshield (not pictured) and a lighter. I had to discard the windshield because it didn't fit in the box, and for me, that's a must. It can be purchased separately, though.
I'll add one more thing: the rubber seal on the funnel plug had worn out. I had to replace it. This despite the fact that the stove wouldn't light. At least, there wasn't even a hint of a smell. P.S. And the translator misrepresented the price. It was expensive for me (considering the incomplete set).
@Andrey Sevastopol You have done a first rate job of replicating the base, flame control and flame plate. Pharael.