No, the cup is sandwiched between the second and third pieces from the bottom. How would it work otherwise? The part below the top knob is screwed onto the top of the pump tube when all is assembled as one piece. Duane
@Andrew Cooper The brass piece you photographed above (with the red arrow) is two pieces screwed together and must be unscrewed. The part with the slot goes into the leather pump cup. The other part screws onto the slotted part to sandwich the pump cup. From above: 2. Unscrew the notched brass fitting from its joining part. 3. Fit the notched brass piece into the concave area of the pump cup and screw it through the hole in the back of the pump cup. 4. Refit the back plate to the slotted brass fitting. Tony
@Tony Press thank you so much, that was really helpful. This is my first stove fettle so had not appreciated the piece which sandwiches the leather cup is two pieces. Now I have this - please see pictures. Where the red arrow points there is a little bit of slack meaning the whole pump cup piece can move up and down the shaft about 2 mm. Everything is tightened to the limits on the threads so not much I can do about this. Does this look ok now?
Update. I have reassembled and managed to get a flame (of sorts) from the stove. At the moment though I have only a plume of flame coming up the middle tube. Maybe something is blocked?
The pump cup and its assembly are meant to move back and forth on that kind of pump. You will not get a proper flame until you fit the inner and outer flame caps on the top of the burner. See the parts diagram above (4205 and 4676) and the photo posted by "hikerduane" above. Tony
@Andrew Cooper You can safely buy this set from Juliands. Have done business with him several times. There are also other options for buying used parts on Ebay. Tom
Fair point @snwcmpr but thank you @Tom Pedersen. Good to know others have found a supplier reliable. Parts now ordered.
Warning NRV Buying off ebay, you often get parts for new stoves, not classic stoves. I highly recommend a reputable parts supplier for your classic stove.
@Andrew Cooper A very reputable parts supplier for your classic stove is Base Camp who are based in the U.K. Mike and Amanda are really helpful, very knowledgeable and great to talk to, and so I would suggest giving them a call if you need parts in the future as they are continually adding to their very, very extensive parts inventory (probably the largest in the world) - so they may have stove parts available to purchase but which are not necessarily listed on their website until they are able to update it. Pharael.
@Pharael thank you so much, really helpful. I will be calling them. I did buy two bits off ebay but I am still not having any luck. There may be a fault in the stove that I haven't discovered yet. I had a flame out of the central pipe but now I've added the spreader the flame is not emerging from the spreader. I am wondering which is the correct position. Pushed right down or higher up? Can anyone enlighten this novice please?
Hi @Andrew Cooper The inner cap (the metal donut) is up side down. Try flipping it over - the empty space should face downwards. -R
Update: I have turned the inner cap over so this is now correct. I am still getting a malfunction. Without the upper cap I get a strong clear and steady flame - see picture. With the upper cap added the flame doesn't really spread, it just flits around a bit. There's plenty of paraffin in the stove, I am using meths to pre warm the stove before pumping up pressure. There's plenty of pressure because when I release it there's a steady hiss. Am I missing something basic here? Thanks in anticipation.
Underburn likely in that last pic, plus flame will dance around until the preheat fuel is consumed. Don't light the burner until the preheat flame is out or you may ruin the new parts. Not all burner caps are the same. Duane
As @hikerduane said, you need to let the priming fuel burn out completely then hold a lit match / lighter next to the holes in the outer burner cap. These burners should be nearly silent. Any roaring sound from below the caps is telling you to shut down and start again. They are primarily for indoors or well sheltered location because they are almost pathologically allergic to wind. On cold days you might need to prime twice. There are plenty of posts in this forum about underburn. Including this one . Type underburn into the search box on the top right corner of the page for many more. Regards John
Hello @Andrew Cooper, I grew up a wayward artillery shell's flightpath from you the the bottom of the escarpment on the other side of Zallsbury Plain. Also a fellow Lister and water pump owner! Have a thorough read of this article from the FAQs area of this site which should cover some of the basics.