Right, I’ve knocked up an Electrolysis tank and stripped the base and lid and got the surface rust off the windshield/pot stand. I’ve got both decals for the lid and tank but now I’ve got to disassemble the burner from the tank. Obviously I don’t want to bugger this up now but the connection to the tank is solid. So before I did I thought I’d ask. Is there thread lock of some description and how do I soften it, heat? I did try my heat gun on it but I scorched the paint which doesn’t really matter as I’m going to strip and paint it anyway but do I persevere or is there another method that’ll work?
@DAVE GIBSON I have taken apart 3 or 4 9063's apart. First, I use an Automotive Flare wrench to better support the hex end as it and the fuel line are one piece. I then clamp the wrench in a vice and unscrew the tank. Be very careful that nothing slips because you can round off the hex portion. Mike
Yes, I,ve got a set of brake spanner’s that’ll be the same thing but I’d have to modify them to fit. The gap’s too small to fit over the pipe. Looks like I’ll have to give that a go. Thanks for the reply.
Good luck, fine stove. Took apart Enders 9061 with a lot of heat an brake spanners. Needed heat from propane torch. 9061 is all brass so no paint to burn. Was tight with capital T. Try clamping a set of vice grips on your modified gap spanners to keep from spreading, nothing to lose.
Gotta ask, do you HAVE to get the burner off? Like others said, heat, propane, get it HOT. Baby Enders such a fun stove!
Good point Keith, my 9061's tube was completely block with NO fuel to burner end with high pressure. I never replace wicks just because.
I really want to paint the tank. I could mask everything up I suppose but that’d be giving up. I’m going to try with the brake spanner and heat which I think might work. The problem I was thinking about was that the tank isn’t actually that substantial and heat and brute force might twist and deform it around the connection. Perhaps I’m over thinking it and it really isn’t a problem.
Plus one on getting the flare wrench and heat. All of mine had some kind of thread lock...toughest tanks to take off.
I am a bit weird in the overkill department. Also used a vise grip to clamp on the outside of the flare wrench to keep it from opening up potentially. Not sure if it helped anything but with torch, gloves...I got them all off. Good luck!
THIS. If in any doubt, clamp a big pair of VG's on the flare wrench to keep it closed, or you will round the nut and then, yuk. I though about taking a picture of this arrangement at shop today....
That’s a good idea. I’m keen to give it a shot tomorrow if I get chance. I’ve got a small set of VG that’ll do the job nicely.
Excellent. Mine has that same, spider grate, methinks they make at least two other styles. How stuck was it?
@Dave Gidman Well done! I bet that was a big relief. Wick is burnt in places-a good time to consider replacing. Pharael
SUCCESS!! Nothing broke or twisted thankfully. After grinding the wrong size brake spanner (idiot!) I finally got the right one to fit. Mole grips were a winner and although it was a bit tough to start I didn’t need any heat. Fixed the spanner in my vice, twisted and Bobs your Uncle! Perhaps the first attempt when I did use heat did something to the thread lock but this time wasn’t a drama. I actually felt a bit daft having worried about destroying my stove. The wick isn’t fantastic so I’ll replace that I reckon. Now I'm over that hurdle I can get on with the rest. I’ve done this on countless brass stoves but as I’ve said, this one worried me. Thankyou to everyone who replied, it gave me the confidence to have a go. Regards Dave
