This single burner Vesta (a double burner version was also produced) was a very popular self-pressurising gasoline stove in France and was manufactured from the late 1940’s through to the early 1960’s by F.J.Paris. On acquiring this stove, I needed to restore the case due to the amount of corrosion being present, which in a number of small areas, were well on the way to perforating. For the repaint, VHT spec. was used and cured at 200C for two hours. Vesta accessories - a wrench, funnel and spirit can. The wrench fits the following… …stuffing box nut… …fuel jet… …and the burner securing bolt, situated on the bottom of the case. I have found that stowing the wrench, funnel and spirit can in these positions keeps them all securely in place when the lid is closed. The Vesta’s burner control knob sits permanently outside of the case. This is one durable chunk of Bakelite when considering how well these control knobs appear to have stood the test of time and stove use. The carry-handle IMO, only offers a modicum of protection. Probably not a backpacker’s first choice due weight and case size, but the Vesta is still a great stove to own and use. When I acquired this Vesta, the control knob was moveable but was on the moderately tight side. Removing the spindle, I cleaned the spindle’s threads and then lubricated them with copper grease and refitted. Following this, the operation of the control knob was much easier and smoother. The graphite packing did not require replacement. Case lid stamping. A clearer case lid stamping taken from one of my other Vesta’s. ‘BREVET 517.684’ is the ‘Vesta Camping’ patent number which was registered on 27th June, 1946 by the manufacturer, ‘F.J.Paris’. The original asbestos preheat pad was replaced with new 8mm glass fibre rope. I removed the fuel jet’s cleaning needle and its spring - this provides an improved and more stable simmer capability. Prior to refitting the fuel jet, I applied copper grease to the threads to ensure an effective gas tight seal. The filler cap and its integral SRV. As can be seen, the original SRV cork pip was very worn and in dire need of replacement. With gasoline stoves, I will always replace a cork pip with a replacement pip made of Viton. Fitting a new wick inside a 6mm OD copper tubing, cut and bent to the same length and shape as the original wick, increases the burner’s thermal feedback to the tank. This is beneficial because it reduces the pre-heat time in cold weather and also increases the flame output (with the cleaning needle removed). Side note: With a straight length of 6mm OD copper tubing, I wetted the new cotton wick with water first, which then made it very easy to twist-thread it through the tubing. I then lined up the tubing to the original wick at the ‘burner-end’ and marked the tubing where the bend needed to begin. Using a mini pipe bender, I then bent the tubing to the shape of the wick. A small manually rotated pipe cutter was used rather than a hacksaw, which easily and neatly cut the excess copper tubing to the required length without damaging the wick. This clever modification was originally designed and implemented by John @presscall, which he posted here back in 2016. Whilst the silent cap from an Enders 9061 or 9060D can be successfully used in place of the Vesta’s original roarer, a BD ‘Mini Cap with legs’ also works really well. Pharael.
I've got 4 or 5 of these Vesta stoves including the double burner model. I replaced the wicks in mine. I think your copper tubing solution might be better. My Vestas are fitted with Quiet Stove silent burners (except the 2 burner) Here's the one I carry in my coffee making kit. View attachment 351931 Ben
I've got 4 or 5 of these Vesta stoves including the double burner model. I replaced the wicks in mine. I think your copper tubing solution might be better. My Vestas are fitted with Quiet Stove silent burners (except the 2 burner) Here's the one I carry in my coffee making kit. Ben
I've got 4 or 5 of these Vesta stoves including the double burner model. I replaced the wicks in mine. I think your copper tubing solution might be better. My Vestas are fitted with Quiet Stove silent burners (except the 2 burner) Here's the one I carry in my coffee making kit. Ben
Thanks for sharing your beautiful restoration and presenting the stove in such detail @Pharael That wrench is so cool, I wish mine had come with one.
@z1ulike - That is one impressive ‘ready-to-go’ coffee-making kit, Ben. I have two of my Vesta’s fitted with silent caps. With my coffee making on a Vesta, it’s a French-U.S. collaboration…using a Coleman coffee percolator. Pharael.
@Pharael . Great post. A meticulous, comprehensive restoration. A fantastic example, complete with all the accessories (this little container is adorable)
@Knee - Thanks very much for your very kind words. I was very fortunate to have the accessories. Pharael.
My wick replacement method. It also worked well. This photo shows what I used. The wick is a 1/4 inch fiberglass core braided rope having a twisted fiberglass core sheathed in a blended KEVLAR(R) and fiberglass braid. I purchased online here http://tinyurl.com/pmdqyfg . The wire is 10 gauge stainless steel bent at the end so it won't push past the end of the wick. Any wire will work as long as it's stiff enough to hold its shape. The thread is simple cotton sewing thread. Fiberglass wicks don't hold together as well as the cotton ones so I wrapped them with cotton thread to keep them from fraying and to hold their shape during installation. Once wrapped, it's fairly easy to push the stainless wire down the middle of the wick and bend it into shape. The key to this operation is a piece of plastic drinking straw cut lengthwise down the middle. Place both halves of the straw around the wick letting it extend 1/8 inch past the end. After much trial and error I found that leaving a small gap between the end of the wick and the brass insert it butts up against works best. If you shove the wick all the way in it blocks the hole and limits the flow. Using the straw allows you to compress the wick to a diameter that fits in the hole. The stiffness and smoothness of the straw allows you to easily slide the wick into the burner tube. When inserting the wick hold the straw tightly so the wick doesn't slide and push it in until the straw butts up against the brass insert inside. Holding the wick firmly against one half of the straw, bend the other half up and pull it out with your other hand. You can then hold the wick in place against the side of the tube and pull the other half of the straw out. Once both straw halves are removed the wick will expand and hold firmly in place. You can then insert the wick into the tank and tighten things up.
@z1ulike - Ben, that is a very impressive wick replacement for sure on your Vesta’s. Really appreciate you sharing the step-by-step process you undertook. You are a clever bloke. Pharael.
