This Optimus 22B was restored using essentially the same process I undertook in the restoration of my Optimus 22 An electrolysis bath was used on the case, to remove the paint and corrosion. Finishing was undertaken by wire brushing the case to remove any residual paint and old fuel lacquer deposits back to bare metal, to make ready for repainting. The top of the case was not too bad in terms of corrosion. However, the same could not be said for the bottom or the inside of the case. A 360 degree electrolysis bath (the case is the ‘negative’ and the sacrificial mesh is the ‘positive’) - with the case then flipped over to complete the corrosion and paint removal process. Water with soda crystals added is the electrolytic solution used - the soda crystals increasing the conductivity required for the ion exchange to occur between the case and the mesh. The case now back to base metal inside and out following electrolysis with additional wire brushing removing any fuel lacquer or residual paint. Following a full degrease of the case, it was now ready for the 2x zinc-based primer coats to be applied, followed by 4x top coats of ‘Ford Taunus Cosmos Blue’. Following the curing of the top coats, an authentic replacement 4cm ’Optimus’ label was applied to the case top and then 3x lacquer protective coatings additionally applied to both the inside and outside of the case. All seals were replaced - supplied by The Fettlebox. My trusty SVEA 123 key’s cut-out, makes easy work of undoing a tight SRV (safety release valve) cap. SRV parts left to right: SRV cap / spring / pip holder / pip / SRV housing (incorporated into the filler cap) The tank, regulator rods, pot support, spanner and heat shield were all cleaned. The faded lettering on the regulator control knobs were re-whitened using a fine-nibbed white acrylic pen. The burners and brass mesh filters were cleaned ultrasonically - 2x 30 minute sessions at 80C. The corrosion and old fuel lacquer deposits were removed from both windshields, going back to metal both inside and out, before heating them up to ‘cherry red’ with a paraffin blow torch and then oil quenching them in clean engine oil. This will prevent any corrosion from occurring in the future. A 100mm x100mm x 0.9mm stainless steel heat deflector was added beneath each burner. The 22B in action using Aspen 4 fuel… Thanks for looking. Phil
@Pharael Excellent documented fettle and restoration throughout, the stove case repaint loos superb a fantastic colour match and finish well done there on your outstanding work
Wow! I have just acquired a model 22 and if my fettling efforts are half as good as yours I will be happy. Congratulations on the excellent job you have done (one of the best I have seen). I will be using your examples as a guide, thank you for sharing this.
@David Cully - Very kind words, thank you. Have fun with your own restoration and look forward to you posting your 22 when you are done. Pharael.
