I could use some advice on a repair to an old Svea 123 (pre-Optimus 123R). The regulating valve does not appear to close completely, as fuel will leak through the nipple even when the valve is turned all the way to the right. I suspect there's some carbon or other gunk in there, but before I start to disassemble the thing, I'd appreciate some guidance on how best to go about this, what to look for, etc. Thanks!
Hey, John, Welcome to CCS! If you use the "search" feature on this site, and are prepared to do a little research, you will find that this topic has been covered in outstanding detail, not only for the wonderful SVEA, but also for the 8R, and many other such stoves. It's great fun, actually, and even though I've been a member for around 4 years, I still spend a great deal of time "searching" for the fantastic information that's available here at CCS!! Having said that, I'll add that removing the stuffing box nut and spindle, is pretty straight forward. However, you will very probably need a new graphite packing for the spindle, so be prepared to hunt one down. Others have used graphite tape, and other such things, in place of the actual packing. But, why not use the "real deal" and order one from A&H, at the link on this site? Anyway, look around a bit, and if you have any more questions, or need some further help, please get back to us, OK? Have fun with your little SVEA 123! They are outstanding little stoves, and easy to fix up, should you have a problem. While you're replacing the graphite packing, you might as well order a new fuel cap gasket, too, just for grins!! 8) Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
With the regular 123, it's easy to get the valve out. Remove the nut, and then use the key to screw the valve stem all the way out. Just be careful when you pull it out that you don't mess up the graphite packing. Then it's easy enough to clean off the end of the valve. Shake out the valve housing. You may want to poke around in there with a long needle or something, but likely any carbon build up is sticking to the end of the valve stem. Reassemble, and see if it works. Let us know if there's still a problem. Best of luck. ....Arch By the way, welcome to the forum.
John my tuppance here. If you need to use anything other than a soft cloth to clean the valve tip, use very fine, four aught, ( 0000 ) steel wool. Do not use sand paper or emery cloth as these ( unless you are using something in the 900 grit range ) are way too rough. lance
Thanks for the advice - I wasn't sure how much of a difference there is in the valves between the 123R (which I'm more familiar with) and the 123. It took a little doing, but here's the report: I unscrewed the nut and removed the valve spindle as suggested. The graphite packing disintegrated as I removed the spindle - just fell apart into little crumbs. Fortunately I had an extra length of new packing on hand. There was a LOT of gunk all over the spindle, from the threads up to the tip. I cleaned it off with a paper towel and inspected the tip, which was good and not deformed. I also shook out a fair bit of loose debris from the vaporizer, and then reassembled. The spindle felt a little rough going in, so I backed it out and found the threads were covered with gunk once again. At this point I decided a more thorough cleaning was needed, so I also removed the nipple and sprayed carburator cleaner through both the valve and jet openings. Reassembled a second time and while it went together more smoothly, it would still leak through the nipple even when closed, although not as much as before. I repeated the cleaning process with the carburator cleaner, and tried again. This time it did not leak. I went ahead and primed it, to see whether any more work was needed to get it operating properly. It fired right up with a good, strong flame - just like it was new. The flame color is predominantly green, however, instead of the more familiar blue. I'm assuming that this is due to the carburator cleaner burning off and that it'll change over time. Now all I need is to pick up a windscreen to get it trail-ready - this stove had been orphaned because it was "old and wouldn't work any more," which knowing how bomb-proof these things are, I figured I could get it going again. Thanks again for the assistance!
Hey, John, Way to go, Lad!! As you have found out, the little SVEA's work like a champ, even after abuse, neglect, and the passage of time, with just a little TLC! Yes, a few tanks of fuel, and the green should disappear from your flame, and the normal blue flame will return. As to a cooking setup, why not try to get a Sigg Tourist cookset? With that, you will have near the ultimate SVEA 123 cooking setup, and you won't need to locate a separate windscreen for your stove. Those of us who have such a setup for our SVEA's, consider them to be a absolute best combination around for that stove!! Again, congrats for having fettled your little SVEA to life, and good hunting for a fine cookset, or a windscreen for it, whichever you prefer! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
With time the green should go away, just oxidation type thingy chemical reactionary stuff. Congrats!!
